Miami Herald (Sunday)

There’s quite the buzz about this new anti-aging skincare product

- BY LESLIE BAUMANN, M.D. Special to the Miami Herald

Exosomes are the latest buzzword in anti-aging skincare — and for good reason.

These tiny membranebo­und storage spheres are the most recent and advanced discovery in cell rejuvenati­on research. In fact, exosomes have created an entirely new category within the anti-aging skincare market, and dermatolog­ists expect to see much more research surroundin­g these ingredient­s.

Here, I break down the science behind what exosomes are, how they work, and what makes them the best new anti-aging ingredient in skincare.

WHAT ARE EXOSOMES?

Exosomes are small sphere containers lined with lipids that naturally exist within blood platelets and other body tissues. They contain RNA, growth factors and other cell signals and allow cells to communicat­e.

In the context of antiaging, think of exosomes as the “active ingredient” of cell regenerati­on.

Although exosomes are naturally found throughout our bodies, these cell communicat­ion spheres become deficient as we age. When this happens, we start to see increased senescent cells and other signs of aging show up on our skin.

BOOST COLLAGEN

One of the aspects of exosomes is that these elaborate spheres offer the same benefits of multiple anti-aging ingredient­s.

The sphere holds different molecules that have different purposes. Thus, exosomes can increase collagen synthesis, calm inflammati­on and neutralize free radicals, which can damage cells, causing illness and aging.

ANTI-AGING SERUMS

The skincare company Plated™ has uncovered a way to add naturally occurring, platelet-derived exosomes to the skin to achieve those important regenerati­ve effects and reverse signs of aging. Studies show results after eight weeks of twice a day use of this new anti-aging serum.

INJECTED EXOSOMES

Exosomes can be used before, during and after cosmetic procedures such as laser treatments and microneedl­ing to enhance the rejuvenati­on response and skin-healing process.

A company called Kimera sells exosomes to doctors to inject or apply on the skin after procedures such as microneedl­ing.

WHAT DO EXOSOMES DO TO SKIN?

Research shows promising evidence that exosomes can treat a number of skin conditions, including:

● Signs of aging, such as lines and wrinkles

● Hair loss

● Rosacea

● Eczema

● Inflammati­on

● Acne and acne scars

● Cold sores Chalazions and styes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN AN EXOSOME SKINCARE PRODUCT

Right now, there are not many exosome skincare product brands available. However, as research in this field continues, more and more companies will come out with products claiming to contain exosomes. Therefore, it is important to know what to look for when buying an exosome-based skincare product so that you know you are getting an effective product that will provide all of the amazing benefits of exosomes outlined above.

Important qualities to look for in an exosome skincare product are:

The exosome source. Exosomes should never be plant-based.

They should be extracted from human tissues such as placenta or platelets. The benefit of plateletde­rived exosomes is that the function of platelets is to heal the skin.

The shelf-stability of the product. Exosomes are naturally stable at your body temperatur­e, so exosome products should be very shelf-stable. However, if they are stored in a hot warehouse, they can lose their effects. So make sure you buy these from an e-commerce store that uses an air-conditione­d warehouse or directly from your doctor.

● How the exosomes are extracted from the human tissue. Centrifuge­s extract the exosomes. How large and fast the centrifuge is greatly affects how intact the exosomes are when they are extracted. Not all companies do this properly.

It is important to know what you’re putting on your skin, and the only way you can know this is to choose a product that has been produced properly.

If you are unsure of how to find this informatio­n, ask your dermatolog­ist about a specific product. You can find a boardcerti­fied dermatolog­ist at AAD.org.

WHERE TO FIND EXOSOME SKINCARE

Plated™ is the only topical serum exosome skincare product available, and it is available through only a select few dermatolog­ists. However, be on the lookout for this product and other exosomebas­ed skincare products to become more widely available soon. The Kimera products are only available as a treatment in your doctor’s office.

While exosome skincare products are expensive — currently around $250 a bottle — this is an instance where it is well worth the money to splurge on properly formulated exosomes, as they offer the antiaging benefits of several different products wrapped into one.

For more informatio­n on exosomes in skincare, you can read more here.

To stay in the know about the latest skincare research and ingredient­s, follow Baumann Cosmetic on YouTube or @BaumannCos­metic on Instagram or Facebook.

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