PUERTO RICO
our condo. The larger Balneario La Monserrate, known as Luquillo Beach, as well as Seven Seas Beach in Fajardo, weren’t officially open the days we visited. But we simply followed the stream of beachgoers slipping through the fence.
Every beach had aquamarine waters, little to no seaweed, and light to modest crowds. The only variations were in sand texture (crushed-shell bits to silky powder) and waves (mild to moderate). The only thing to complain about was the frequently overflowing garbage cans.
By chatting up a local, my husband got directions to Playa Escondida, a “Hidden Beach” accessed by an easy 30-minute hike. The next day, we followed the path through a tunnel of thick mangroves to find another spectacular, secluded strip of sand.
ISLAND CUISINE
Our favorite restaurant was Fajardo’s La Estación, in a former gas station. A couple of New York City restaurant veterans serve what they call Nuyorican BBQ , bringing Caribbean flavors to the Southern U.S. tradition. The grilled swordfish was white-tablecloth caliber. And the pulled-pork sandwich, tucked into Puerto Rican sweet bread, deserves a spot on any best-of list.
We also ate well at the Luquillo kiosks, a blockslong strip of open-air restaurants and food stalls. We found delicious, portable pinchos (kebabs) and, for a taste of the mainland, excellent slices at Revolution Pizza Shop. I’d also recommend Terruño and La Parrilla for a more formal meal.
Puerto Rican cuisine includes a lot of fried starches, including green plantains served mashed as mofongo or as chip-like tostones. We liked Puerto Rico’s version of the empanada, called pastelillos, which are sold everywhere, even out of a beach hawker’s insulated bag.
Our kids loved pairing the fish tacos at La Fonda in Luquillo with a flight of tropical juices: mango, passion fruit, tamarind and soursop. And, even better, a virgin piña colada from the kiosks, served in its own pineapple, topped with a paper umbrella.
My husband and I availed ourselves of Puerto Rico’s famous rums. Enormous mojitos were a common and refreshing beach sipper. Even with cocktail prices in the single digits, we didn’t encounter the rowdy drinkers that often descend on beach towns.
DAY TRIPS
We took a break from beachcombing and drove 20 minutes to the El Yunque rainforest. On my prior trip to El Yunque, my friends and I ziplined through the treetops of this U.S. national forest. My family opted to drive its most popular route, which required an online reservation 24 hours in advance.
We made pit stops to take in the view at an observation tower, marvel at a shuttered CCC-built swimming pool, scramble up a steep hiking path and douse ourselves under a waterfall.
We also made a day trip to the small island of Culebra, the sleepier sister to the better-known Vieques. The kids initially loved the upper-deck view and ocean spray of the ferry (tickets cost a mere $4.50 for adults, $2 for kids; book in advance). But the waves’ jostle became less fun once my 7-year-old lost his breakfast. (We picked up Dramamine for the return.)
We caught a van ride to Culebra’s Playa Flamenco, often named among the best beaches in the world for its crystalline waters and white sand. A decade ago, when my friends and I relaxed under one of its palm trees, I was approached by some of the island’s roaming horses — one boldly licked the ocean salt off my arm.
The islands’ lack of development, due to Culebra’s and Vieques’ long occupation by the U.S. Navy, helped sustain the free-range herds. But the isles’ legacy as a training range means contaminants abound. Even after an alarming 40,000-plus bombs, grenades and rockets have been removed, an unknown number remain.
Though the risks to visitors are minimal, a massive, decades-long environmental cleanup remains underway. Woodand-concrete showers, bathrooms and kiosks are under construction at Flamenco, a welcome upgrade to the Hurricane Irma- and Maria-battered beach’s minimal amenities.
My kids were captivated by their novel surroundings, content to search for geckos, build forts out of palm fronds, or watch a guy shimmy up tree trunks to harvest coconuts (he kindly opened one with a machete so they could drink the juice).
As they age into more island activities — from snorkeling to surfing to scuba diving — I can’t wait to bring them back.