Miami Herald (Sunday)

This Miami baker learned to make bread via YouTube.

Now he’s up for a James Beard Award

- BY CONNIE OGLE cogle@miamiheral­d.com

Miami baker Jesús Brazón keeps a history of bread failure on his phone.

The proprietor of the family-owned Caracas Bakery, who taught himself to bake via YouTube, scrolls back years through hundreds of photos with a critical eye, pointing out the imperfect loaves he has loathed.

They are not like the perfectly sculpted baguettes now gracing the bakery shelves. No. The photos tell a different story. This loaf was too dense. That one tasted bitter, while another had too many holes. And don’t even get him started on his first seedy bread: “It tasted like a rug.”

Standing in the newest Caracas Bakery, which opened in 2023 in Miami’s MiMo neighborho­od, Brazón marvels now at his mistakes and the improvemen­ts he made with dogged precision — and the fact that the painstakin­g journey he embarked on after fleeing Venezuela in 2008 has led to a nomination for a James Beard Award.

“It’s actually a little unreal to be nominated,” he says. “I didn’t know anything about this five years ago. And so many people have been working their way up from the bottom of a bakery who haven’t had the chance to do their own thing like I did.”

Along with his father, Manuel, with whom he opened the first Caracas Bakery, in Doral, Brazón is a semifinali­st for a 2024 James Beard Award in the outstandin­g pastry chef or baker category. Manuel Brazón, who with his wife, Scarlet Rojas, arrived in Miami in 2014, worked at Zak the Baker in Wynwood — also a 2024 Beard semifinali­st in the category of outstandin­g bakery — for four years before the first Caracas Bakery opened in 2020.

That first bakery was tiny, just 1,000 square feet. Even after years of perfecting his sourdough — his phone will corroborat­e the fact he’s been working on it since 2014, inspired by a bakery in New York City’s Chelsea Market — Brazón wasn’t quite prepared for the onslaught of customers both before and after the pandemic shutdown.

“It was just my dad and my mom and me,” Jesús Brazón recalls now. “We had a barista helping out in the front.”

The lure of freshly baked bread drew the curious, and quickly long lines formed outside the bakery every morning. Bread often sold out by noon. An overwhelme­d Brazón lured his father away from Zak the Baker to make the business a true family affair and was able to add pastries and other items to the menu.

The lines still exist at the Doral location, which is a takeout-only venue, but Brazón’s dreams have only grown bigger — and so has the menu. The MiMo Caracas is a busy, bustling sitdown breakfast and lunch spot, tucked away in an unassuming strip mall next to a Doggi’s Arepa Bar.

Jesús Brazón says the move to MiMo

 ?? PEDRO PORTAL ?? Baristas Gabriela, left, and Andrea, prepare coffee at the recently opened Caracas Bakery, the second location owned by Jesús Brazon and his parents. It is at 7283 Biscayne Blvd. in Miami.
PEDRO PORTAL Baristas Gabriela, left, and Andrea, prepare coffee at the recently opened Caracas Bakery, the second location owned by Jesús Brazon and his parents. It is at 7283 Biscayne Blvd. in Miami.
 ?? PEDRO PORTAL pportal@miamiheral­d.com ?? Jesús Brazón, center, with his parents, Scarlet Rojas and Manuel Brazón, and some of the pastries and dishes available at their second Caracas Bakery in Miami. Manuel and Jesús Brazón, are semifinali­sts for a 2024 James Beard Award for outstandin­g pastry chef or baker.
PEDRO PORTAL pportal@miamiheral­d.com Jesús Brazón, center, with his parents, Scarlet Rojas and Manuel Brazón, and some of the pastries and dishes available at their second Caracas Bakery in Miami. Manuel and Jesús Brazón, are semifinali­sts for a 2024 James Beard Award for outstandin­g pastry chef or baker.

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