Miami Herald

Which of these ‘Cuban’ beers that you can find in Miami is the best?

- BY CARLOS FRÍAS cfrias@miamiheral­d.com Carlos Frías: 305-376-4624, @Carlos_Frías

When several new beers that purport to be Cuban hit South Florida store shelves in the last year, we had to investigat­e.

First, were they really imported from Cuba? And second, which one tastes the best?

The first question required some investigat­ing to which we devoted quite a bit of reporting. In short, all three are U.S. companies using creative marketing to evoke the Cuban Cristal, the best-selling beer on the island. Because of the embargo and disputes over who owns the Cristal name, the actual Cuban beer isn’t sold in the United States.

The three you can buy — at supermarke­ts and liquor stores across Miami — each have their own characteri­stics. We filmed a blind taste test and came away with these thoughts on each.

PALMA

This beer, owned by a California man, Martin Wadley, creatively copies the label of the Cuban beer, down to the tagline, “La Preferida de Cuba,” Cuba’s preferred beer. That’s a tough case to make when this Palma is actually not sold on the island. It’s brewed in Nicaragua and imported.

This beer is the lightest of all three, and that’s probably why it’s most like the current Cristal. It’s a pale yellow color, has a crisp, not-unpleasant bitter bite (like a dry white wine) and feels the most refreshing. A perfect beach beer.

MI CRISTAL

Tony Haber, a Florida Internatio­nal University grad, immigrated from Cuba at 14, served in the U.S.

Navy and started several wine and liquor brands, which is what gave him for the idea for Mi Cristal. He hired a Portuguese company to brew his beer and imports it. It’s now available at Latin supermarke­ts such as Sedano’s and Presidente, specialty liquor stores, and will soon be in big-box retailers like Costco and BJ’s Wholesale Club.

Mi Cristal pours slightly darker than Palma. It has a maltier flavor, and that makes it almost creamier. It feels more satisfying to sip, rather than pound, as you might a Palma on a hot beach day.

LA TROPICAL’S LA ORIGINAL

If pedigree matters, La Original is the most Cuban of the non-Cuban beers. It’s brewed in Wynwood in a partnershi­p between Heineken and descendant­s of the original owners of La Tropical, Cuba’s first brewery, which opened in eastern Havana in 1888. La Tropical created the Cristal brand in Cuba as its light beer but lost it when the communist state nationaliz­ed all private businesses.

This is the most balanced of all the three beers. This golden amber lager is crisp and refreshing like Palma but has more body, like Mi Cristal.

Which is the best? That will obviously depend on your beer preference. Bartender Adrian Castro at Union Beer Store, where we filmed the blind taste test, liked Palma best. Our photograph­er, Matías Ocner, preferred La Tropical. And I floated between Mi Cristal and La Tropical.

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