LATIN AMERICAN COOKING
In late August, my editor, Joe Yonan, asked if I wanted to work on a profile of cookbook author Sandra Gutierrez. “Have you seen a preview of her new cookbook, ‘Latinísimo’?” he asked, noting that recipes editor Ann Maloney was also impressed by it. I hadn’t, but my interest was piqued.
Later that week, I was scrolling through a PDF of the book on my computer, my mind preoccupied by 27 other unfinished tasks, when I came upon a recipe for pupusas. I’d had them many times before, but had never thought to make them myself. Here was a recipe that looked easy enough to make in well under an hour. Suddenly, the scope and scale of Gutierrez’s book came into view.
Recipes — more than 300 total — credited to Indigenous, Spanish, African and modern-day cooks were categorized by ingredient. Essays expanded on the origins of dishes, and the confluence of historical and cultural factors that led to their creation. At first, it appeared to be an encyclopedia of the food of all 21 countries that make up Latin America, something I hadn’t seen since Maricel E. Presilla’s fantastic 2012 “Gran Cocina Latina.”
What makes “Latinísimo” distinct is that it was written by a home cook, for the home cook. At 592 pages, it could have easily read as academic, but instead is full of incredibly cookable recipes — and the sort of context that will make a curious cook want to give them a try. Recipes like this one, for Pollo en Coco, which is made in several Latin America countries, including Honduras, Guatemala, Colombia and Nicaragua.
In September, I flew to Cary, N.C., to spend a couple of days with Gutierrez in her home kitch
that define the holidays. There are no hard and fast rules for making these; just use what looks best at the market and be choosy.
Look for citrus fruits that are firm and heavy for their size, avoiding any that are scarred or wrinkled. Store them in plastic bags in the refrigerator, where they’ll stay fresh for about two weeks.
The easiest way to peel the larger oranges and grapefruits is to cut off both ends to create a flat surface. Place one cut end on the cutting board and then use a sharp knife to slice as close to the pulp as possible, working off the skin in strips and removing the bitter pith. Don’t worry if a little of that pith is left behind. Trim the fruit and then slice into wheels or sections by cutting between the membranes.
Time allowing, prepare the fruit the night before and marinate it in the refrigerator
with several sprigs of rosemary to add a refreshing herbal note.
Finish with a little prosecco or dry white wine, a drizzle of fruity olive oil and a light sprinkle of coarse salt. Let winter rage outside,
this salad brings a taste of sunshine to the table.