ON THE TRAIL
Minnesota and Wisconsin, and focusing around Lake Pepin. Reaching 2 miles wide in places, it’s the broadest naturally occurring part of the Mississippi and also the birthplace of waterskiing, invented nearly a century ago.
While some road-trippers book private sailing excursions across Lake Pepin (call Captain Beth at WIMNSAIL for details), and others soar above it with man-made wings (Eagle Hang Gliding has the ticket), I find Anderson’s laidback nature tour to be an excellent intro to the area. He expertly narrates the scenery around us. Silver maples over here. River birch over there. He also points out brilliant cardinal flowers and bald eagles perched high in the treetops. We stop to smell the swamp milkweed, with a scent like vanilla cotton candy, and watch the water dance on hydrophobic lily pads. We keep our fingers crossed for a sighting of a prothonotary warbler, identifiable by its chirpy call and happy yellow coat, but aren’t so lucky. “They’re hard to find anywhere else this far north,” Anderson assures me. “They only like river backwaters and wetlands.”
The ecology is just one reason Anderson is enamored with this swath of river country. The epic landscape is another. “There are towering bluffs 500 feet above the wild Mississippi River, and it’s so easy to find peace and
Tracing the twists and turns of the Mississippi River, the Great River Road (which officially runs on both sides of the river in most places) draws cyclists and road-trippers alike.
Hover your phone’s camera to watch a video from the Buena Vista Park overlook.
quiet,” he says. “There’s something about the deep forests, the views, the huge river valley—it feels ancient, a little mysterious even. It’s a different kind of beauty out here.”
A beauty in need of protection. The Lake Pepin Legacy Alliance, which Broken Paddle supports, is working hard to combat sediment accumulating in the upper end of Lake Pepin. Threatened by upstream erosion, both the lake and back channels are in danger of disappearing: The silt clouds the waters and destroys natural habitats. Anderson worries that the damage could be irreversible if they don’t act immediately. His response? Share his wonderment with as many people as possible.
As we near the close of our tour, Anderson announces a surprise. It’ll take some extra paddling, but he says it’s worth it. We push past a boat of fishermen lazily jigging their rods for smallmouth bass and northern pike, through a swirl of kelly green duckweed, around several tall stands of reeds. And there she is: a lone American lotus rising from the inky black water. She was in full bloom yesterday, Anderson says. Today, just two buttery yellow oval petals cling to her showerhead-like stem. That’s how fast things move around here. The message is clear: Hurry, go now, before it’s gone.
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HE MNI CANBARN BLUFF
At RUSH RIVER PRODUCE in Maiden Rock, hummingbirds dart in the wildflowers while you pluck currants, tart gooseberries and plump blueberries in July and August. Nearby, CULTURAL CLOTH specializes in ethically sourced blankets, rugs and other textiles made by indigenous women artists around the world. Start or end your travels on a spiritual note at KINSTONE in Fountain City. The modern megalithic sculpture garden covers 30 acres overlooking the Mississippi. It features a meditation labyrinth, restored prairie, a dolmen with a 13-ton capstone and a thatched cordwood chapel for quiet contemplation. For all things pastry, hit up country-cute STOCKHOLM PIE AND GENERAL STORE in Stockholm. Have a slice of old-fashioned sour cream raisin or order the daily pot pie special. Browse for souvenirs in the attached shop, STOCKHOME.
Open weekends only, CHEF SHACK is a sweetly rustic restaurant in Bay City. It’s helmed by two-time James Beard Award nominee Lisa Carlson, who specializes in seasonal fare. Book a table ahead and count your blessings if she’s serving her famously tender brisket. Homey HARBOR VIEW CAFE
in Pepin has been a favorite in these parts since 1980. A rainbow of Adirondack chairs faces the water outside, and old books line the cozy interior walls. Also in Pepin, clink glasses on a storybook piazza encircled by Italianate-style buildings at VILLA BELLEZZA WINERY, one of the 11 vineyards on the GREAT RIVER ROAD WINE TRAIL.
Two blocks from the Lake Pepin shore, MAIDEN ROCK INN in Maiden Rock ranks among the quirkiest B&BS on the river. The 1906 high school building features restored pressed-tin ceilings, ornate custom woodwork and an artful spiral staircase.
Our destination has missed making memories with you. When the time is right, we’re ready to welcome you back to our shores. A lot has changed, but we invite you to fall back in love with the sugar-white sand beaches and pristine turquoise waters along the Alabama Gulf Coast by visiting when your family is ready and able. As always, stay safe and stay healthy.
Gulfshores.com/back-to-the-beach
Daydreaming of your next road trip? Hit one—or a few—of South Dakota’s 62 national and state parks. The Mount Rushmore State is full of natural treasures like Custer State Park’s bison herds and the waterfalls in Spearfish Canyon. When you’re ready to travel, find your great place in the great outdoors.
Travelsouthdakota.com
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Here are five great reasons to make North Dakota part of your summer plans. #1 Beautiful Theodore Roosevelt National Park, #2 Historic forts and museums, #3 Family-friendly state parks, #4 Miles of hiking and biking trails, #5 Vibrant cities with excellent dining and lodging. Find more reasons in your free Travel Guide.
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From vibrant cities to the rolling hills of Amish Country, from inventive chefs and a food and drink scene unlike any other, to breathtaking vistas on exhilarating woodland hikes, to hearing waves crash at the shoreline, Ohio’s ten perfect road trips await you and those you care about most! For life’s most important journeys… Ohio. Find It Here. Ohio.org
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