Lighter fruitcake just might make you a believer
Holidays are steeped in traditions. Most are looked forward to with great anticipation. But some are, let’s just say, a bit less welcome.
Enter the annual “gift” from that favorite aunt, uncle, neighbor or fillin-the-blank. Hermetically sealed in cellophane (lest the air hit it), and tucked in a decorative red and green striped box, is the annual fruitcake.
The very word conjures up thoughts of a heavy, dense, overly sweet cake filled with neon-colored candied fruit. Some fruitcakes are passed around in a re-gifting cycle.
Others may be stored in a cupboard for future use. Then one day, the cabinet above the fridge is opened and there it is, staring at you. Eventually you and the kids take it to the backyard and provide a holiday treat for the squirrels. Even they give it an inquisitive look until one brave squirrel starts to nibble away at the semi-petrified sugary block.
Let’s face it; seldom is a fruitcake actually eaten.
In the spirit of the soon-to-be-here holidays, it’s time to revisit this unloved classic and give it another chance.
A fruitful history
The roots of fruitcake can be traced to ancient Rome, where pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and raisins were mixed with a barley mash along with honey, spices and preserved fruits. During the Middle Ages, fruitcakes were carried by crusaders to sustain themselves over long periods away.
Throughout Europe, individual countries developed their own versions of cakes made with fruit.
Fruitcakes in the United Kingdom vary by region. In England, fruitcake frequently serves as the top layer of a wedding cake, preserved to enjoy at the christening of the couple’s first child. The Scottish soak their fruit in — what else? — Scotch.
Germany’s version of a cake made with fruit is actually a yeast-based bread called stollen. Speckled with candied fruit and spices, stollen is often glazed or sprinkled with powdered sugar.
Romania’s version, called cozonac, is also a sweet bread. Served at most major holidays, cozonac often is filled with a ground nut or poppy seed mixture along with cocoa powder and raisins.
And in Italy, the fruity sweet of choice is panforte. A dense cake made with spices, nuts and dried fruit, the sweet concoction is thinly sliced and often served with a selection of cheese or perfectly prepared espresso.
Locally made panforte
Here in Wisconsin, Janice Thomas, co-owner of the Savory Spoon Cooking School in Door County, is so fond of panforte that she started a business creating her own version.
“I fell in love with panforte on one of my culinary tours to Italy,” Thomas explained. “Panforte is a famous confection from the 15th century, originating in Siena, Italy. It was love at first bite, and yet I knew it would be even better with dried Door County cherries and local honey.”
(Savory Spoon panforte is available locally at Sendik’s and Larry’s Market as well as online at savoryspoonpanforte.com.)
Switch up the fruit
This holiday season, try your hand at a lighter version of fruitcake.
Dried (not candied) fruit such as cherries, cranberries, apricot and figs are soaked overnight in an orange-flavored liqueur like Grand Marnier.
The base of the cake is similar to a poundcake batter. The soaked fruit, along with any leftover liqueur, is folded into the batter and baked in a parchment-lined loaf pan. While the cake is baking, a simple glaze of melted apricot preserves and more orange liqueur is prepared.
The finished result is a lighter version of a traditional fruitcake: perfect for dessert or as part of a holiday brunch buffet. Wrap it loosely in cellophane, tie a bright ribbon around it and start a new tradition: a fruitcake that will actually be eaten.