Plant-munching critters might require fencing
Q. I just planted tomatoes, cucumbers and zucchini. The next day, the leaves on all the plants, except the tomato, were eaten to the stem. Please help.
A. How frustrating. It sounds like an animal moved into the area and decided to dine on your plants. If you live in a quiet area, clanging pans, reflective DVDs or other scare tactics may work.
Commercial or homemade repellents often dissuade animals from munching on plants, but you’ll have the best results when applying them before the animals start feeding. Check the label and make sure the product you select is safe to use on edible plants.
Fencing is the most effective method, although not always practical. You’ll need a 4-foot-high fence of hardware cloth or chicken wire anchored tight to the ground to keep out the rabbits and a fence 6 feet high for woodchucks. Bury the fence at least 10 inches deep if you suspect woodchucks are eating your plants.
Secure the gate area to prevent the animals from gaining access to the garden, and leave the top 12 inches of the fence unattached to the posts and bent outward to prevent them from climbing.
Q. My four red maples (Acer rubrums) started to bud out, but half the trees are not yet leafing out. I know they started budding in mid-March following the 70 degrees in February that were followed by some below-freezing temperatures. What should I do to help them out?
A. I have been seeing similar damage on some trees and shrubs this spring. The great fluctuations in temperatures are to blame. Plant buds are most susceptible to cold damage when they start opening in the spring. A sudden drop in temperature can kill the expanding buds.
Healthy trees eventually will produce new buds. The best thing to do is wait to see what happens. Water the trees thoroughly when the top 4 to 6 inches are starting to dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch on the soil around the base of the tree. Do not pile mulch on the trunk, as this can lead to rot and other problems.
The true red maple (Acer rubrum) with green leaves in summer and red fall color struggles in our high pH (alkaline) soils. Its leaves are often undersized, pale green to yellow and brown. It is less tolerant of environmental stressors.
Consider hiring a certified arborist to take a look at the overall health and vigor of the plants.
Q. I have a metal arbor and am considering growing two Virginia creepers up and over it. Should I consider a less aggressive plant like honeysuckle? I want to attract birds and butterflies.
A. Skip the Virginia creeper. This native is a vigorous grower. Birds eat and disperse the seeds, resulting in seedlings throughout the landscape.
Consider one of the honeysuckle vines. They thrive in full sun to partial shade and are hummingbird, butterfly and bird magnets. Plus, the deer tend to leave them be.
Major Wheeler honeysuckle vine has outstanding red flowers all summer and is resistant to powdery mildew. Dropmore scarlet is a popular honeysuckle, also longblooming, with orangered flowers. Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) has scarlet-orange flowers that are yellow inside. Email questions to Melinda Myers through melindaymyers.com, or write her at P.O. Box 798, Mukwonago, WI 53149.