With a lifelong love for creating special foods, Kohler chocolatier finds her niche
Crystal Thomas always loved baking and experimenting. Desserts and experiments were her thing, but when her mother married a chef, he told her she needed to learn to cook and bake.
Thomas took his advice, and when she went to culinary school at Johnson and Wales she got a double degree, first in culinary arts, then baking and pastry.
When Thomas came to Kohler three years ago, she knew she'd found her calling. Now, the head chocolatier for Kohler Original Recipe Chocolates spends her days making chocolates, creating pairings and teaching others. She even plans her vacations around visiting chocolate shops.
Thomas, who lives in Plymouth with her daughters, ages 6, 9 and 12, created a number of specialty chocolates for the annual In Celebration of Chocolate, with events Feb. 7-9. Question: What is your background? How did you decide pastry, baking and chocolate would be your career?
Answer: I was always in the kitchen with my grandma and my auntie. Through my teenage years I was always baking and experimenting. My mother actually ended up marrying a chef, so when I was 12 years old he took me under his wing. He said if you're going to be valuable, you have to know how to do both. I got out of school early for a special program in high school, so I would do pastry in the afternoon and at night he'd have me work the line and cook savory. I went to Johnson and Wales in South Carolina. I got a double degree, a full degree in culinary arts, and my second degree in baking, pastry and science. …
It was time to do my internship. I was given a list of countries. I'd already worked under a French chef and a German chef. I was like what is Wales? Where is that? I ticked the box, got on a plane and went. I was lucky and ended up with a company called Portmeirion. Our menu changed every day. I got to work alongside chefs from all over the world. Q: How did you end up in Kohler? A: Portmeirion is its own world, it is a village on a seafront, like a world that doesn't exist in real life. When I came to Kohler, it gave me the same feeling. When I drive into Kohler, it is a different world. This is the place I want to be.
Chocolate, I've always had a special relationship and love for it, but never specialized in it. I entered the world of chocolate at Kohler. I know now I'm in what I'm meant to be doing.
Q: Every chef has a memorable failure or flop in the kitchen. What’s yours?
A: I was in Wales, making a pot of glaze. It curdled. I panicked. This was my second week into my internship. Three gallons of sauce, that Frenchman is going to kill me! He came out and I said ‘I'm sorry.' He said ‘No, mademoiselle,
we fix.' He showed me how to fix it and save it. Q: What can people expect at this year’s In Celebration of Chocolate?
A: We went out of the box this year. We'll have a real intimate gathering at Craverie that Friday night. People come in, drink some wine and eat as much
chocolate as you want. We'll do some specialty pieces and hors d'oeuvres, (guests) meet Ambur (Dougherty) and myself.
Going into Saturday, we have a twohour hands-on seminar with Ambur, how to make truffles at home. I hate when you go to a seminar and there is no way you can do that at home. This is definitely something you can do at home. My first presentation that day, I'm doing a breakfast with Matt Bauer. …
Then we're doing a hot chocolate seminar with Nicholas Blouin, the pastry chef. He's doing a chocolate sphere that melts down into the cup and turns into hot chocolate. It's really cool. Then one of my favorites, the chocolate and cheese, but we added beer this year. Then we also have Raise a Glass, the wine and chocolate pairing. I took two of the wines they gave me and turned them into chocolates. I designed pieces just for the event, and those will be for sale in the Craverie during In Celebration of Chocolate. We end with the chocolate wine dinner.
Q: Tell us about pairings you’ve done. What’s your favorite? Most unexpected?
A; I love port, so the port and chocolate is my favorite. The most fun, where I let loose and have fun, and I didn't expect it to work, is the chocolate and cheese I do with Bel Gioioso. Sean Moran has taught me so much about cheese. What it takes to make cheese is almost what it takes to make chocolate.
The most unexpected tasting I have done so far is beer and chocolate. We did spring libations with my pink lemonade and watermelon punch chocolates and put it with a beer. That blew my mind.
Q: Valentine’s Day is approaching. What’s something special you’d give?
A: We do a seasonal line, the Love collection. This box has a rosé wine heart, a champagne heart, and a pinot noir heart. This year, we'll release a champagne creme brulee piece and a red velvet.
Q: What should people think about when it comes to good chocolate?
A; Think about making sure it is fair trade. To me, that is of importance. Really, it then depends on what you like. I prefer dark chocolate. Q: Do you seek out chocolate when you travel? A: I do. My favorite place this year I've been, is a place in New York, Stick With Me. It is a super tiny place, and she'll maybe have 10 to 12 bonbons, but her flavors are unique and it is an experience.
Table Chat features interviews with Wisconsinites, or Wisconsin natives, who work in restaurants or support the restaurant industry; or visiting chefs.