Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Ardent reopens for takeout after pivot

- Carol Deptolla

Milwaukee is full of finer-dining restaurant­s that have had to pivot because of the coronaviru­s pandemic. Ardent, which reopens Thursday with a carryout menu, is unusual in that it made its pivot before the pandemic hit.

The east side restaurant, known for its multicours­e tasting menu and modernist aesthetic, closed in February for six weeks of remodeling. The plan was to add a full bar and lounge with a menu that is less pricey and a quicker meal, while still serving its tasting menu at the back of the restaurant, which ranked No. 1 on the Journal Sentinel’s list of Top 30 restaurant­s in 2019.

It’s a change that now seems prescient.

“We were very fortunate in our timing, and restructur­ing Ardent to be more accessible,” said chef-owner Justin Carlisle.

Thursday kicks off Ardent’s first day of offering takeout, including home kits of items that would have been on the lounge menu. (Restaurant­s in Milwaukee now are allowed to reopen at 25% capacity, but Ardent will remain closed for in-person dining. Dining for small private parties might start soon, Carlisle said).

The takeout menu will open with two Ardent Lounge menus, one featuring beef, the other chicken. Each is $90 and serves two.

The debut beef menu’s multiple dishes are radishes with uni butter and ramp greens; Ardent’s own cured caviar with green garlic custard and crisped barley; asparagus salad with egg dressing, bottarga and beer vinegar; house sourdough with cultured butter; New York strip steak; charred rapini with lemon and chile flake; and rhubarb tart with ginger and cream cheese mousse in a sourdough crust.

The second menu has chicken crisped in sourdough starter accompanie­d by potato puree with confit chicken and sauce. That menu also has the radish, caviar, asparagus, sourdough with butter and tart.

Menu to go

The takeout menu will have the Ardent burger and seasoned tots that the restaurant was selling at the Laughing Taco, its sister restaurant in Walker’s Point, and at Fiserv Forum, before the pandemic interrupte­d arena events.

Besides prepared foods and meal kits, the restaurant is selling cuts of beef from the Carlisle family farm as well as ground beef ($8 a pound), beef hot dogs ($10 a pound) and tins of its caviar ($35 an ounce).

The home meal kit menu and butcher shop offerings are expected to change frequently.

Ardent is at 1751 N. Farwell Ave. Menu items are ordered through the website, ardentmke.com, under the reservatio­ns tab, through Tock. It will be open for takeout Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The lounge at home kits are at dinner only. Hours will be 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and 5 to 8 p.m. Burgers will be available for delivery through DoorDash.

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