Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Stone Creek Coffee bakery director puts her sweet tooth to work

- Kristine M. Kierzek Special to Milwaukee Journal Sentinel USA TODAY NETWORK – WISCONSIN KRISTIN COLLETT MIKE DE SISTI /

Kristin Collett admits she has a sweet tooth. Pair that with her love for baking and an interest in sharing with others, and she's found the perfect fit with a career in the food world.

Collett, the director of bakery at Stone Creek Coffee, oversees daily taste tests, creates new products, and implemente­d the company's bread program serving the company's 10 Milwaukee area cafes.

She's also currently studying integrated food systems management at the University of Minnesota, and earlier this year teamed up with the Artisan Grain Collaborat­ive for the Neighbor Loaves program, sourcing grain from local and sustainabl­e farms.

In addition to walk-up orders at Stone Creek Coffee locations, the company has added a mobile app for ordering.

I'm a second career food profession­al, but I do have early roots in food. My dad was the general manager of the Shakey's Pizza restaurant­s when those were still around. They used to make their own pizza dough. Now they're in the pizza dough business, the people who did Shakey's that own and operate Baker's Quality Pizza Crusts …

When I was younger, my dad would bring us to the commissary and we'd play with the dough balls. I consider that my entry. My mom also worked there for a time. We would spend a lot of time there. My parents pushed me to go to college, and I spent the first part of my career in nonprofit communicat­ions for a little over 15 years. Then I did an evening program at Kendall Culinary College in Chicago, designed for people like me.

Baking beginnings

I started at North Shore Boulangeri­e and helped Gene Webb open that facility. Then I was recruited by an acquaintan­ce for Rocket Baby Bakery, to work in pastry there. I'd always had a passion for dough and bakery. I was at Rocket Baby for 21⁄2 years and learned so much. Everything there is from scratch. They do phenomenal things with awesome ingredient­s, and I owe a lot to Rocket Baby for where I am today.

From there, a bread and pastry bakery, I felt like I'd brushed over the restaurant scene. I tried that for a few months and decided it wasn't my scene, so I get back into the bakery works. I've been at Stone Creek for 31⁄2 years now.

Behind the bakery Finding her fit

It is an FDA inspected facility, a production facility. We don't sell right from the bakery, we sell it to the cafes and some wholesale customers who sell to the retail public.

I'm the director of the bakery, so administra­tive responsibi­lities take up about half my time. The other half, I'm working side by side in the bakery with the team on production, training, teaching them different skills, working on efficiencies. We bake daily.

Current situation

Our business, like many in the food industry, has been affected in a major way. Our bakery team is less than half what it was before COVID, and we've closed a few cafes.

Always on the menu

We could never take our super scone off the menu. There would be revolt in the streets if we did that.

Her indulgence

I definitely have a sweet tooth, no doubt about it. Part of my role is to assess quality. I'm looking at our pastries every day and tasting them too.

I really love pies. One year, I decided to make a pie a week. I just wanted to get good at pie dough. I think I made 54 pies that year. I never get sick of it.

Right now we're making hand held mini galettes, basically pies without the tins. We do a quality taste test at the end of the day. Whenever I find that (galette) in the quality control bin I go for those.

First cookbook she purchased

Dorie Greenspan's “Baking.” I purchased that for myself back in 2006. I still use it. She's definitely an early inspiratio­n.

Baking by the numbers

You might have your favorite recipe at home, but scaling it to make 250 in one batch is challengin­g. It is trying to preserve a flavor memory.

Doing it in a way people when they bite in it doesn't say this is mass produced, that is challengin­g. It requires knowing how ingredient­s work together. That is

something I continue to learn about every day.

Holiday must-have

My mother's birthday almost always falls within a day or two of Thanksgivi­ng, and her favorite cake is German chocolate. We usually have that on Thanksgivi­ng. We're going slightly different this year. She asked for a German chocolate cream pie, and my family is always disappoint­ed if I don't make my rolls.

Shop local

We are a coffee shop first. That said, all of our bakery is available for special order, too. If there is something you really love, you can place a special order for your holiday breakfast or snack to go with your coffee or whatever.

We collaborat­ed with Tapped, and infused (maple syrup) with our coffee. The bakery is also producing a spice rub to be used on meats, vegetables.

Taste and travel

Food is always the center of any experience. I'm one of those people that travels to eat.

One really good food trip was to Portland, Oregon. The most memorable meal I had was at Ken Forkish's pizza place. He's the guy that wrote “Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast,” and I do have that cookbook.

Point of pride

The things I like best are short doughs: pie dough, scones. I'm a dough person, I've been playing with sourdoughs for years. I basically developed the bread program at Stone Creek. We used to buy our breads. Now we even make our own bagels, the real deal. I'm definitely a bread geek, for sure.

Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationsh­ip that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalit­ies to profile, email psullivan@gannett.com.

 ?? MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL ?? Stone Creek Coffee on North Fifth Street is among about a dozen of the "coffee shop first" cafes.
MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL Stone Creek Coffee on North Fifth Street is among about a dozen of the "coffee shop first" cafes.
 ?? COURTESY OF KRISTINE COLLETT ?? Kristin Collett, director of bakery at Stone Creek Coffee, finds that having a sweet tooth suits the job well.
COURTESY OF KRISTINE COLLETT Kristin Collett, director of bakery at Stone Creek Coffee, finds that having a sweet tooth suits the job well.

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