Moving a snake plant could be the first remedy
Question: I can never tell if I am watering my snake plants too much or too little. The leaves shrivel up or tip over.
Answer: Floppy leaves are common on snake plants grown in low light. If this seems to be the case and you can, move it to a brighter location. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry before thoroughly watering your snake plants. Check the roots if you are worried you are over or under watering your plants. Carefully slide the plant out of the pot. Healthy roots are firm and white. Slimy brown roots mean you are watering too often or allowing the plants to sit in excess water. Trim off any rotted roots and move the plant to a clean container slightly larger than the remaining root ball. Brown crispy roots may indicate you are allowing the plant to go too dry. Try to increase watering frequency gradually, allowing enough time for plants to start showing improvement. Fortunately snake plants are resilient and once you uncover and correct the cause your plants should recover.
Q: I am looking for a narrow upright deciduous low-maintenance shrub. I am considering Purple Pillar Rose of Sharon but concerned it may be a magnet for Japanese beetles. Any thoughts on this or other options?
A: You are right that Japanese beetles can be a problem on Rose-of-Sharon. I have seen plants suffer and even die when we have a colder than usual winter. Obelisk Serviceberry (Amelanchier) is a narrow upright cultivar with white flowers, fruit the birds love and great fall color. Kilimanjaro double file viburnum grows 5 to 7 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It has white flowers in spring, burgundy red fall color and horizontal branching. It may be difficult to find a local source for this plant. Laced Up Elderberry is unique with lacy black leaves on straight broomstick like stems. Pink flowers appear in early summer. As always make sure the plant you select not only fits the space but will thrive in the growing conditions.
Q: My old orchid cactus has beautiful blooms each year but suddenly developed these corky bumps on the leaves that do not rub off. I have not been able to find any disease that matches the symptoms. Please help.
A: It sounds like your cactus may be suffering from oedema, also listed as edema. This is a physiological disorder caused by a response to environmental conditions or toxic substances, not a disease. When the plant absorbs more water than it needs it forms blisters or warts that appear water-soaked at first. These eventually turn into brown corky spots. You may also see oedema on peperomias, scheffleras, begonias, ivy geraniums, violets, cabbage and tomatoes. It does not harm the health of the plant but definitely detracts from its beauty.
Reduce the risk by watering in the morning when plants tend to more quickly utilize the water. Increase light if needed and make sure the plant has plenty of space between it and its neighbors. Good airflow reduces humidity, boosting water loss from leaves and stems. This is the opposite of what we do for tropical plants. Make sure plants are growing in a well-drained potting mix and a container with drainage holes. As always avoid overwatering and do not let the plant sit in excess water.
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