Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

The best way to fight weeds is to keep the lawn healthy

- Answer: MELINDA MYERS A: Monarda fistulosa A:

Question: How can I get rid of weeds in my lawn without using poison?

The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Mow high to encourage deeply rooted grass that is better able to tolerate drought, resist pests and out-compete the weeds. Mow often, removing no more than one-third the total height of the grass. This is less stressful on the lawn and the shorter clippings quickly break down, adding organic matter and nutrients to the soil. A season’s worth of grass clippings is equal to one fertilizer applicatio­n.

Fertilize your lawn at least once in the fall. Research found even one fertilizat­ion greatly decreased weeds. Boost our lawns’ appearance and ability to compete with weeds by fertilizin­g Memorial Day, Labor Day and sometime between mid-October and Thanksgivi­ng before the ground freezes. Consider using a low-nitrogen slow release fertilizer like Milorganit­e (full disclosure: I am a fan and a spokespers­on), which encourages balanced root and shoot growth. As the microorgan­isms break down,some of the phosphorus and potassium bound to the soil become available for plants to use. Phosphorus encourages root developmen­t, and potassium supports disease resistance and hardiness.

Organic grass and weed killers just kill the tops of the plants they contact, not the roots. Repeat applicatio­ns are needed. Organic broadleaf products containing the active ingredient Fehedta or Hedta are effective at managing some broadleaf weeds without harming the grass. Corn gluten meal can be used as an organic pre-emergent herbicide. It won’t kill existing weeds but will prevent many of the weed and grass seeds from sprouting. Several years of spring and fall applicatio­ns have yielded good results.

Q: I want to plant some native bee balm seeds this fall. The package says plant the seed in late fall. With our warmer seasons, when would that be, mid-November?

Great question. Weather conditions, not the calendar, are your best guide. Wait for one or two hard frosts before planting these and most other wildflower seeds. Planting in fall places the seeds in the ground, where they can receive the cold treatment for germinatio­n if needed. The goal is for the seeds to remain dormant until spring. Fall planting gives you a jump-start on spring growth.

Q: I wonder if it would work to plant new tulip bulbs in flower boxes this fall and overwinter them in our attached but unheated garage. I would then move the window boxes back in place in spring when the tulips emerge.

Yes this would work. The key to success is watering the potted bulbs whenever the soil is thawed and dry. Another option would be to plant the tulips in smaller pots and store these in the garage for their winter chill. Add some extra insulation such as bags of shredded paper, potting mix or packing materials around the pots or window boxes to protect them from extreme cold. This extra insulation will help keep the soil temperatur­e consistent­ly cold to reduce the risk of early sprouting if we have a warm spell during the winter.

Once the bulbs sprout in spring, sink the pots in the window box to enjoy the floral display. Once the flowers fade, you can easily lift the pots out of the window box and replace them with new plants

Post questions at melindamye­rs. com, or write P.O. Box 798, Mukwonago, WI 53149

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