Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Top perennial grasses in Wisconsin

- Reed grasses: Sedges: Maiden grasses: Moor grasses: Switchgras­ses:

Grasses fit in any garden style

Patrick Smith, a Master Gardener volunteer who has filled about three acres on his five-acre River Hills property with gardens that include native and non-native grasses, said grasses can either be a focal point or can add texture.

And they can fit into any style of garden.

“I think there is a grass for every garden . ... I think they command as much attention as any perennial does.

“In a contempora­ry garden, you could use a Karl Foerster grass because it’s so vertical and well behaved. It doesn’t sprawl or flop, or spread. You could plant it in rows or in blocks.

“For a cottage garden, switchgras­ses would be good because they have a softness. Even their panicles are very light and have a certain transparen­cy. You could use a fountain grass too, like the Hameln fountain grass. That’s a great little accent. It’s a little more decorative and not too big.

“In a cottage garden you want the grasses worked in between the perennials. You want it to look unplanned, as if nature had her way with your garden,” he said.

“In a formal garden a miscanthus grass, such as gracillimu­s, is a good choice. Feather reed grasses would also work well because they are so structured. I’ve seen some beautiful formal settings where several different varieties of grasses were used. You could plant them like a hedge,” he said.

In his own gardens he uses grasses to fill open spaces.

“I use them almost like mulch. I weave them in to cover bare spots. If you are using all flowers, it’s inevitable that you will have bare spots. My style is very natural. Mulch is not natural. By using grasses it saves money, as I’m not mulching every year or every other year. I love the visual, but it’s also practical,” he said.

Two grasses he loves are Karl Foerster and Northwind switchgras­s.

“I still use Karl even though it has become so common. It’s overused, but there’s a reason why. It’s easy to grow, does what it needs to do, and is well behaved and flexible,” he said. “Karl is a real workhorse in the garden, and I can’t imagine a garden without it.”

He said the Northwind switchgras­s, introduced by Roy Diblik at Northwind Perennial Farms in Burlington, is much bigger than most switchgras­ses.

“It can get 5 to 6 feet high, and it gets more dense and more vertical than some of the other switchgras­ses. It also has a very pronounced blue/green cast to its leaves. I got it five or six years ago and have it in my pollinator bed,” he said.

Mixing grasses provides year-round interest

Mary Jane Swedberg, a Master Gardener volunteer who lives in Oconomowoc where she grows about 20 varieties of grasses in flowerbeds on 40 acres, said when grasses are added to a bed they can provide a resting point for the eye, or can carry the eye across a border.

“Grasses will add a cohesive look. My beds would not be the same without them,” she said.

When selecting grasses, she said both natives and non-natives work well and can easily be mixed together, and each has advantages.

She said one advantage to natives is

According to Debra P. Kopydlowsk­i, the top five varieties of perennial grasses commonly grown in Wisconsin are:

Some examples are Karl Foerster and fall reed grass

Including curly sedge and variegated Japanese sedge

Silver maiden grass, zebra grass and miscanthus grass moor grass

Gunsmoke

Autumn and purple

Prairie dropseed and

they are usually bigger. But non-natives will be more dominant in a garden bed, can add more color, and come in more heights.

“For example, miscanthus morning light, a non-native, gives a strong vertical accent. And when it blooms it gives additional pops of color. You want to bring in bright colors.

“And autumn moor grass, also a nonnative, has a lower stature I like. It’s a nice piece to add to the front of a bed. There aren’t many natives that are that diminutive,” she said.

She added that another benefit of grasses is they can provide year-round beauty and interest.

“I try hard to select grasses that aren’t just fall blooming or have fall interest. I look for grasses that will give me some interest in spring and carry into summer,” she said, noting that some also

look striking when left up for winter interest.

In her gardens she uses some grasses to hold up other plants.

“Native grasses tend to be stronger and more vertical while some other plants tend to flop. In my beds I integrate native grasses with native perennials that flop, to hold them up.”

She even mixes them in with boulders.

“I weaved together boulders I found on my farm with grasses that compliment their colors. With a tan boulder I used Karl Forester because it’s a tan color, and with a pink quartz I used a miscanthus.

Grasses give you ‘a lot of bang for your buck’

Kopydlowsk­i said grasses are also a good choice because most of them are drought-tolerant.

“Most of the switchgras­ses are native to Wisconsin and have deep root systems which help clean our runoff water. They are very drought-tolerant because of this.

“And zebra grass, which gets very tall and wide, has a strong root system that is more tolerant to temperatur­e and moisture changes. Normally I only have to water my grasses in summer,” she said.

Smith said grasses are also great additions because they tend to be very tolerant of insect grazing, and some provide homes to beneficial insects. They also don’t get powdery mildew, and some are deer-tolerant.

They can also last for years, Swedberg said.

“I have never had any die out. Larger ornamental grasses do need some regular dividing. They should be divided about every three years.

“With grasses you get a lot of bang for your buck. And these days they’re pretty available at area garden centers,” she said.

Although most grasses need full sun to thrive, there are some that do best in shade. Some good options here are northern sea oats and tufted hair grass.

Fountain grasses are good annual additions

Annual grasses are also great additions to gardens; especially when used in pots.

Here Kopydlowsk­i said fountain grasses do well; especially purple fountain grass and red fireworks fountain grass.

“There is also a millet grass that can be used in pots as a centerpiec­e. The birds love it. When it grows it looks more like corn would,” she said.

Smith said grasses from different zones can work well in pots, too.

“Purple fountain grass is not hardy in our zone, but it’s fantastic in pots. It will grow from spring to fall.

“I’ll use it as a focal point in a planter and in spring I might use some spring blooming annuals around it. When they fade I’ll pull them out and put summer or fall blooming annuals around them.”

He said perennial grasses can also be used in pots, and then in fall they can be planted in the ground.

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