Everything you need to know about Wisconsin cheese

If Wisconsin were a country, it would be the the fourth-largest producer of cheese in the world.

Wisconsin produced more than 3.5 billion pounds of cheese in 2022 — a quarter of the nation’s total cheese production, according to a report from the Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection.

That’s equivalent to about 8,700 Boeing 747 airliners, or 158 Eiffel Towers.

The Journal Sentinel decided it’s a gouda time to look at what types of cheese the state is producing and exporting.

What are the most common types of cheese produced in Wisconsin?

In 2022, Wisconsin led the nation in the production of specialty cheeses like cheddar, Muenster, feta, Limburger, Parmesan, Romano and provolone.

Mozzarella and similar styles accounted for almost a third of the cheese by weight produced in Wisconsin in 2022, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. American styles like Colby and Monterey Jack accounted for another 30%.

Over the years, farmers have modified the types of cheeses they’re producing, according to the trade group Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin.

In 1978, more than 65% of cheeses produced in Wisconsin were American types like cheddar and Colby, and only 21% were Italian varieties such as mozzarella and Parmesan. In 2022, only 30% were American and more than 47% were Italian.

Veering toward the production of specialty cheeses gives smaller farmers an edge over mega-farms that can produce higher quantities at more competitive prices, said John Lucey, director of the Center for Dairy Research.

“If you move to another variety, and maybe you can make it a bit higher quality, that gives you an opportunity,” Lucey said.

Wisconsin cheese is exported to more than 140 countries

Historically, almost all cheese made in Wisconsin was sold within the U.S. That’s changed significantly in the past 20 years as there’s been a growing interest in catering to international markets, Lucey said.

Wisconsin exports 15% of its dairy output internationally, to more than 140 countries, according to the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin.

There’s also been increasing political support for dairy farmers to expand their export operations. In March 2022, Gov. Tony Evers signed a bill to increase Wisconsin’s dairy, meat and crop exports by 25% by June 2026.

Those efforts aren’t going unnoticed. In 2021, Green Bay-based Schreiber Foods was named U.S. Dairy Exporter of the Year by the U.S. Dairy Export Council after exporting their products to more than 55 countries in 2020.

Why does Wisconsin produce so much cheese?

Wisconsin became a cheese-making hub due to early European immigrants, according to the Wisconsin Historical Society.

Swiss cheese was one of the first Old-World cheeses produced in Wisconsin, made by Swiss immigrants. Italians produced mozzarella, provolone and Gorgonzola; the French produced Camembert, brie and blue cheeses; the Germans made Muenster and Limburger; and the English brought cheddar.

Wisconsin farmers gravitated toward making cheese because it kept longer than milk and butter, especially with limited cold storage and transportation methods.

While most cheese in Wisconsin was produced on individual farms, J.I. Smith of Sheboygan County acquired the state’s first cheese vat in 1858 and started shipping barrels of cheese to Chicago. With increasing demand, more dairy farmers moved production from the farmstead into the factory.

By 1870, Wisconsin had 54 cheese factories. Despite hundreds of dairy farms closing in recent years, Wisconsin is still home to nearly 6,000 dairy farms — more than any other state — and 1.28 million cows.

Wisconsin also has nearly 1,200 licensed cheesemakers that produce over 600 varieties of cheese. That’s nearly double the number of any other state.

Looking to try some local Wisconsin cheese?

Wisconsinites don’t have to go far to try an array of locally produced cheeses. You’re bound to see at least a couple Wisconsin-made varieties at your grocery store, but if you’re looking for more options, here are a few local cheese shops to check out:

● Larry’s Market, 8737 N. Deerwood Drive, Brown Deer

● The Village Cheese Shop, 1430 Underwood Ave., Wauwatosa

● West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe, 4000 N. Water St. (in the Milwaukee Public Market) and 6832 W. Becher St., West Allis

● Wisconsin Cheese Mart, 215 W. Highland Ave.

● Clock Shadow Creamery, 138 W. Bruce St.

PHOTOS BY MIKE DE SISTI / MILWAUKEE JOURNAL SENTINEL Alpinage Cheese owner Orphee Paillotin brines a wheel of aged raclette in Oak Creek on May 12, 2022. The cheesemaker specializes in raclette, aged French-style cheese made for melting.

An assortment of cheeses are on display in the featured cheeses case at the West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe in the Milwaukee Public Market in Milwaukee on Jan. 20, 2020.

An assortment of cheeses are on display at Larry’s Market on North Deerwood Drive in Brown Deer on Jan. 20, 2020.