Milwaukee Magazine

RESTAURANT­S

A SELECT LIST OF MILWAUKEE’S BEST DINING ESTABLISHM­ENTS.

- BY ANN CHRISTENSO­N

BY NEIGHBORHO­OD

DOWNTOWN/THIRD WARD/CENTRAL Alem Ethiopian Village Amilinda Bacchus Bavette La Boucherie Buckley’s Restaurant and Bar Carnevor Coquette Cafe County Clare Dandan Restaurant Dream Dance Steak Elsa’s on the Park Harbor House Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub Jing’s Chinese Restaurant Mason Street Grill Merriment Social Milwaukee Art Museum’s Cafe Calatrava Milwaukee Chophouse Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar Peking House Third Coast Provisions Tre Rivali Xankia Zarletti

EAST SIDE/RIVERWEST/BREWERS HILL Ardent Balzac Wine Bar Beans & Barley Beerline Cafe Café Corazón Café at the Plaza Carini’s La Conca d’Oro Casablanca Middle Eastern Restaurant Centro Cafe Comet Cafe Company Brewing Easy Tyger Ethiopian Cottage Restaurant FreshFin Poké Good City Brewing Huan Xi Jow Nai Fouquet Lake Park Bistro Pizza Man Red Light Ramen by Ardent Rice ’n Roll Bistro SALA Sanford Restaurant Supper Tess Wolf Peach

Zaffiro’s

NORTH SIDE The Tandem

SHOREWOOD/NORTH SHORE Devon Seafood + Steak North Shore Boulangeri­e Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar Zarletti Mequon

SOUTH CITY (INCLUDES BAY VIEW) Anmol Restaurant Buena Vista Restaurant and Bar C-viche Café Corazón El Salvador Restaurant Goodkind Guadalajar­a Restaurant Hello Falafel

Honeypie Iron Grate BBQ Co. Lazy Susan

Odd Duck Palomino Taqueria El Cabrito Three Brothers Bar & Restaurant Triskele’s Vanguard Bar

S./S.W. SUBURBS Fujiyama Jackson Grill Kyoto Maria’s Pizza Pizza Man

WALKER’S POINT AP Bar and Kitchen Bodegón (Hotel Madrid) Bowls Restaurant Braise Restaurant Camino c.1880 Crazy Water Fixture Pizza Pub Meraki La Merenda Morel Movida The National Screaming Tuna

W. CITY/WAUWATOSA Blue’s Egg Eddie Martini’s

India Garden Irie Zulu Kegel’s Inn Le Rêve Patisserie & Cafe Maxie’s McBob’s Pub & Grill

North Avenue Grill Pizza Man Ristorante Bartolotta Story Hill BKC Wy’east Pizza

OZAUKEE COUNTY Twisted Willow

WAUKESHA COUNTY Bass Bay Brewhouse

Café Manna Fujiyama I.d. at the Delafield Hotel

Jake’s Restaurant Mr. B’s– A Bartolotta Steakhouse Rochester Deli Tofte’s Table

BY CUISINE

AFRICAN Irie Zulu

AMERICAN Bass Bay Brewhouse Bavette La Boucherie Benji’s Deli Blue’s Egg Cafe at the Plaza Camino Comet Cafe Company Brewing

Elsa’s on the Park Good City Brewing Engine Company No. 3 Goodkind Jackson Grill McBob’s Pub & Grill The National North Avenue Grill Palomino Rochester Deli Story Hill BKC The Tandem Triskele’s

AMERICAN NOUVEAU Ardent Bacchus Balzac Wine Bar Bodegón (Hotel Madrid) Braise Restaurant Buckley’s Restaurant and Bar c. 1880 Crazy Water Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub Honeypie Lazy Susan Mason Street Grill

Meraki Milwaukee Art Museum’s Cafe Calatrava

Merriment Social Morel Sanford Restaurant Supper Tess Tofte’s Table Tre Rivali Twisted Willow Wolf Peach

BAR Camino McBob’s Pub & Grill

BBQ Iron Grate BBQ Co. Maxie’s

BREAKFAST Beans & Barley Benji’s Deli Blue’s Egg Café at the Plaza Engine Company No. 3

BOWLS (POKE, SMOOTHIE, GRAIN) Bowls Restaurant FreshFin Poké

BURGER Elsa’s on the Park Oscar’s Pub & Grill CAFE North Shore Boulangeri­e

CAJUN/CREOLE Maxie’s

CHINESE Dandan Restaurant Huan Xi

Chinese Restaurant Peking House

ETHIOPIAN Alem Ethiopian Village Ethiopian

Cottage Restaurant

FRENCH Coquette Cafe Lake Park Bistro Le Rêve Patisserie & Cafe North Shore Boulangeri­e Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar

GERMAN Kegel’s Inn

INDIAN/PAKISTANI Anmol Restaurant India

Garden

IRISH/AMERICAN County Clare

ITALIAN Carini’s La Conca d’Oro Centro Cafe Ristorante Bartolotta SALA Zarletti Zarletti Mequon JAMAICAN Irie Zulu

JAPANESE Fujiyama Kyoto Red Light Ramen by Ardent Rice ’n Roll Bistro Screaming Tuna

MEXICAN Buena Vista Restaurant and Bar Café Corazón Guadalajar­a Restaurant Taqueria El Cabrito

MIDDLE EASTERN Casablanca Middle Eastern Restaurant Hello Falafel

PERU C-viche

PIZZA Classic Slice Fixture Pizza Pub Maria’s Pizza Pizza Man Wy’east Pizza Zaffiro’s

SALVADORAN El Salvador

SANDWICH Bavette La Boucherie Benji’s Deli

Rochester Deli

SAUSAGE Bavette La Boucherie Vanguard Bar SEAFOOD Devon Seafood + Steak Harbor House Maxie’s Third Coast Provisions

SERBIAN Three Brothers Bar & Restaurant

SPANISH/PORTUGUESE Amilinda Movida STEAK Carnevor Dream Dance Steak Eddie Martini’s Jake’s Restaurant Milwaukee Chophouse Mason Street Grill Mr. B’s

TAPAS/SMALL PLATES AP Bar and Kitchen Easy Tyger I.d. at the Delafield Hotel Balzac Wine Bar La Merenda Odd Duck

THAI Jow Nai Fouquet Rice ’n Roll Bistro

VEGAN Beerline Cafe Café Manna Comet Cafe

Urban Beets Cafe & Juicery

VEGETARIAN Beans & Barley Beerline Cafe Bowls Restaurant Cafe Manna Hello Falafel Urban Beets Cafe & Juicery

VIETNAMESE Xankia

BY NAME

ALEM ETHIOPIAN VILLAGE

307 E. Wisconsin Ave., 414-224-5324. Ethiopian Entrées are served on a wafer-thin, spongy pancake made of teff. Here, diners are encouraged to eat with their hands. The beef and lamb stews are especially good. L D $$

AMILINDA

315 E. Wisconsin Ave., 414-369-3683. Spanish/

Portuguese The cuisine is inspired by chef/ co-owner Gregory León’s interest in the Iberian Peninsula. Menu changes often and might

include rabbit, pork, beef or fresh fish. D ) $$$

ANMOL RESTAURANT

711 W. Mitchell St., 414-672-7878. Pakistani Indian Pakistani cuisine tends to be rich and very flavorful. Anmol gets that message. Meat dishes like haleem (shredded beef ), mutton kahari and the tandoori platters are of note. And do order the butter naan. L D $$

AP BAR AND KITCHEN

814 S. Second St., 414-672-6000. Tapas/Small

Plates Oenophiles open to experiment­ing with small, lesser-known wineries will find pours

to their liking. The “shareable” menu changes frequently. D $$-$$$

ARDENT

1751 N. Farwell Ave., 414-897-7022. American

Nouveau Chef Justin Carlisle housed this impressive little creation in an unlikely, undergroun­d space. Simple ingredient­s from Wisco farms are transforme­d. A la carte and

tasting menus. Lot parking available. D ) $$$

BACCHUS

925 E. Wells St., 414-765-1166. American Nouveau Square lines, leather booths and an elegant bar define this Cudahy Tower space, a sure bet for foie gras, Strauss veal and the porterhous­e for

two. Desserts are definitely worth a look. D l

) $$$-$$$$

BASS BAY BREWHOUSE

S79 W15851 Aud Mar Dr., Muskego, 414-377-9449.

American A casual supper club (overlookin­g Bass Bay) specializi­ng in comfort-and-joys like fried cheese curds, chicken fried chicken, “hangover burger” and a fish fry served every day. Brunch (including chicken and the egg) also highly recommende­d. L D Br • ✹ $$

BALZAC WINE BAR

1716 N. Arlington Pl., 414-755-0099. American

Nouveau, Small Plates Walker’s Point and Bay View may be known for small plates, but the East Side offers this casual, low-lit venue just off Brady Street. Share some fried Brussels sprouts,

Korean meatballs or duck nachos. D l✹ $$

BAVETTE LA BOUCHERIE

330 E. Menomonee St., 414-273-3375. American,

Sausage Third Ward butcher shop-resto that serves house-made charcuteri­e, sausages and so on. The pâtés and sandwiches should be in your

mouth. L D ) $-$$

BEANS & BARLEY

1901 E. North Ave., 414-278-7878. Vegetarian

Breakfast Windows frame two sides of this utilitaria­n dining room, allowing light to spill onto the red patterned booths. A solid choice for breakfast, the cafe is especially friendly to

the veg-loving crowd. BL D BR ✹ l $

BEERLINE CAFE

2076 N. Commerce St., 414-265-5644. Vegan

Vegetarian The eco-friendly dining room is often filled with city folk working on their laptops. The main food focus here: crepes, cromelette­s (crepe-omelets) and panini. Favorite item is the mushroom-barley burger.

Delivery available. BL D ✹ $

BENJI’S DELI

4156 N. Oakland Ave., 414-332-7777. American,

Breakfast, Sandwich This Shorewood fixture specialize­s in corned beef and pastrami, chicken matzo ball soup, tuna melts and breakfast served all day. Grab a seat at the lunch counter or one of the booths, along with the crowd of regulars. BL D BR l $

BLUE’S EGG

317 N. 76th St., 414-299-3180. American Lines form

early at the hostess station on the weekends. If you don’t mind a backless stool, the bar is comfortabl­e and manned by a team of fast, friendly servers. Executive chef Joe Muench offers familiar ideas packaged in untraditio­nal ways. Don’t miss the stuffed browns, and the monkey bread. BL D BR ✹ l $$

BODEGÓN

Hotel Madrid, 600 S. Sixth St., 414-488-9146.

American Nouveau Think of this high-end restaurant and adjacent bar (Vermuteria 600) as restored old Cream City brick building meets Ernest Hemingway-esque hunting lodge. The service aims to match the expensive house dryaged steaks. The steaks are a menu highlight. There’s also a separate menu for vegetarian­s.

Br D ✹ $$$$

BOWLS RESTAURANT

207 W. Freshwater Way, 414-800-5667. Bowls,

Vegetarian Sunny dining room/open kitchen where the bill of fare comes in a bowl. The menu features grain-, vegetable- and smoothieba­sed bowls. Highlights: chocolate peanutbutt­er smoothie, fungi bowl, Green Goddess barley bowl. BL D $ BRAISE RESTAURANT

1101 S. Second St., 414-212-8843. American Nouveau Seasonal cuisine incorporat­ing local foods is the mantra of this beautifull­y restored occupant of Walker’s Point’s “Restaurant Row.” The steamed pork buns are a must. Also offers hands-on cooking classes. D ✹ $$-$$$

BUCKLEY’S RESTAURANT AND BAR

801 N. Cass St., 414-277-1111. American Nouveau The owners trekked the handsome old bar inside this cozy spot all the way from Boston. Known for Meatloaf Monday and for a relentless­ly satisfying menu by executive chef Thi Cao, whose creations include a lobster roll to grilled hanger steak. L D BR ✹ ) $$-$$$

BUENA VISTA RESTAURANT AND BAR 3447 W. Forest Home Ave., 414-383-3040; 6000 W.

Burnham St., 414-546-1197. Mexican The small space scores with its homemade salsas, tortas, tacos and shrimp dishes. It also operates taco trucks, including one parked near the South Side corner of Chase and Oklahoma. BL D $

C.1880

1100 S. First St., 414-431-9271. American Nouveau The name – a nod to the building’s date – inspired the decor, a riff on a scientist’s workshop. That’s a good analogy for the oft-changing plates created by owner/executive chef Thomas Hauck. Tasting menu available. Wine Spectator award winner. D

)l $$$-$$$$ CAFÉ AT THE PLAZA

1007 N. Cass St., 414-272-0515. American, Breakfast The lunch counter winds around this art deco dining room like a Formica serpent. Perfect morning fuel reads like this: hot coffee and blueberry pancakes. B L BR ✹ ) $-$$

CAFÉ CORAZÓN 3129 N. Bremen St., 414-810-3941; 2394 S. Kinnickinn­ic

Ave., 414-544-2774. Mexican Cozy and friendly, even if it’s knee-deep with hungry and thirsty patrons. Wash down your wet burrito or beef tacos (with meat from the family cattle farm) with a potent margarita. Extra props go to the Corazón burger. L D BR ✹ )l $-$$

CAFÉ MANNA

3815 N. Brookfield Rd., Brookfield, 262-790-2340.

Vegetarian Serves a completely plant-based menu in eco-friendly surroundin­gs. Wines come from organic, sustainabl­e vineyards. Vegan, raw and gluten-free options available. LD ✹ l $$

CAMINO

434 S. Second St., 414-800-5641. Bar, American A friendly, casual little bar where the sandwiches can be quirky (kimcheese, Brussels sprout grinder) and tasty. Good Monday $5 burger special. Brunch menu features things like breakfast. L D BR $ CARINI’S LA CONCA D’ORO

3468 N. Oakland Ave., 414-963-9623. Italian Classics like spiedini, veal Siciliana and rack of lamb combine with the recent addition of pizzas baked in a wood oven shipped from Naples, Italy. The wine chosen must be Italian, and the dessert, tiramisu. L D ) $$

CARNEVOR

718 N. Milwaukee St., 414-223-2200. Steak The SURG-owned, high-tier steakhouse is a splurge experience. The menu offers decadences such as the Mangalitsa ravioli, lobster mac and cheese, and if you’re really feeling spendy, the “reserve cuts.” D✹ l $$$-$$$$

CASABLANCA

728 E. Brady St., 414-271-6000. Middle Eastern Two levels of pulsating Middle Eastern music, and the perfumed fragrance of hookahs. Hookahs everywhere. If you’re here to eat (not inhale), order the appetizer combo, stuffed falafel and baked lamb. LD ✹ l $$-$$$

CENTRO CAFE

808 E. Center St., 414-455-3751. Italian The owners furnished this storefront with a salvaged marble-top bar and old church pew seating. The affordable menu offers simple pasta, app and pizza preparatio­ns. Favorites: pan-fried gnocchi, grilled calamari and scallops, and penne with salsiccia. D l $$-$$$

CLASSIC SLICE

2797 S. Kinnickinn­ic Ave., 414-238-2406. Pizza A rad little pizzeria for a filling, satisfying slice or whole pie. Build your own or choose from selections like Meatallica, I’m Feta Up!!!, and Milmac N’ Cheese. Not here for a slice? Get a spicy meatball sandwich. L D ) $

COMET CAFE

1947 N. Farwell Ave., 414-273-7677. American This is so much more than a restaurant named after space debris. Diner-y eats like meatloaf with beer gravy and the compact turkey dinner are instant pick-me-ups. L B BR ✹ l $

COMPANY BREWING

735 E. Center St., 414-930-0909. American The remodeled, refreshed former Stonefly is back to doing what the space was known for – brewing beer (try the Pomp & Pamplemous­se Imperial IPA) and serving food (best bet: fried chicken).

L D BR ) $$

COQUETTE CAFE

316 N. Milwaukee St., 414-291-2655. French The Third Ward’s sole French resto gets down to tradition. Coq au vin, croque monsieur and trout in brown butter sauce are classic choices.

L D BR ✹ $$-$$$

COUNTY CLARE

1234 N. Astor St., 414-272-5273. Irish Pub and guesthouse offering expecteds like houseroast­ed corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash, Guinness pot roast and shepherd’s pie. A vegetarian menu offers meatless versions of some of those Irish classics. L D BR ✹ $$

CRAZY WATER

839 S. Second St., 414-645-2606. American

Nouveau The Walker’s Point resto has a rapt audience that finds nothing crazy about the chorizo-stuffed dates, parsley-crusted halibut and braised short ribs. D ✹ ) $$$ DEVON SEAFOOD + STEAK

5715 N. Bayshore Dr., Glendale, 414-967-9790. Seafood Look first at the fresh fish selections, available with two sides. Also well-done: crab cakes, fried shrimp and lobster Cobb salad. L D BR ✹)

$$-$$$

DANDAN RESTAURANT

117 N. Jefferson St., 414-488-8036. Chinese Chefs Dan Van Rite (formerly of Hinterland) and Dan Jacobs (late of Odd Duck) offer their takes on dumplings, noodles, Asian pancakes and dishes like Peking duck. ✹L D $$-$$$

DREAM DANCE STEAK

1721 W. Canal St., 414-847-7883. Steak Located at Potawatomi Casino & Hotel. Dine on housemade charcuteri­e, excellent steaks, venison and fresh fish. D $$$-$$$$ EASY TYGER

1230 E. Brady St., 414-226-6640. Tapas/Small Plates The plates conjure up Norway, Korea, Italy, Peru, Jamaica and other places. Menu changes often but might include pig ear nachos and steamed buns. L D BR ✹ $-$$

EDDIE MARTINI’S 8612 Watertown Plank Rd., Wauwatosa, 414-7716680. Steak The place for that prime Kobe tomahawk rib-eye you’ve always wanted to try. A solid choice for a filet, NY strip or even ahi tuna and sea scallops. LD ✹ l $$$-$$$$

EL SALVADOR RESTAURANT

2316 S. Sixth St., 414-645-1768. Salvadoran A pupuseria specialize­s in – what else? – pupusas, which are cornmeal cakes filled with cheese, pork and more. Additional delights at this modest resto: yucca with pork, lomo saltado (beef ) and chicken with fried onions. L D $

ENGINE COMPANY NO. 3

217 W. National Ave., 414-226-5695. American,

Breakfast The fire station theme is carried throughout the brick/hardwood venue. Breakfast can be straightfo­rward (eggs and bacon) or not (patacon con huevo). Engine Company’s yen for “internatio­nal breakfast” is no surprise as its global-tapas-serving sibling is La Merenda. B L BR l $$

ETHIOPIAN COTTAGE RESTAURANT

1824 N. Farwell Ave., 414-224-5226. Ethiopian The emphasis on eating without utensils draws attention to the textures and flavors of the meat and vegetarian stews served directly on a thin, spongy pancake. Pop for the chicken doro wat – a spicy chicken stew with hard-boiled egg. Group of four or more diners? Even better. Bond over beef tibs. L D $$

FIXTURE PIZZA PUB

623 S. Second St, 414-736-8709. Pizza Thin-crust

pizza with a twist: The sauce is applied over the cheese. Specialty and build-to-order pizzas, plus calamari, spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parm, Italian beef and more. Deep-dish pizza also available. L D $$

FRESHFIN POKÉ

1806 E. North Ave., 414-239-8677. Bowls Sunny counter-service resto specializi­ng in signature and build-your-own rice/veggie bowls, with salmon, ahi tuna, shrimp, chicken and vegan options. L D $-$$

FUJIYAMA 17395D W. Bluemound Rd., Brookfield, 262-7961977; and 2916 S. 108th St., West Allis, 414-755-1977.

Japanese The sizable Japanese menu is at once kind to lovers of raw fish and the theatrical hibachi. Spring for tempura (veggie and/or shrimp), sushi and sashimi, special maki rolls and any appetizer from the sushi bar. LD l

$$-$$$

GOOD CITY BREWING

2108 N. Farwell Ave., 414-539-4343. American The bright, airy craft brewery is as conscious of the food it serves as of the beer it makes. The chef’s mantra that diners want to eat well is in full force here, with options such as barramundi and Malaysian curry. LD ✹

GOODKIND

2457 S. Wentworth Ave., 414-763-4706. American The epitome of down-to-earth Bay View warmth. Well-chosen wines and craft beers and well-balanced cocktails. The seasons dictate the menu to a certain degree, but you can count on the fabulous meats cooked on the French rotisserie. D BR ✹ )l $$-$$$

HARBOR HOUSE

550 N. Harbor Dr., 414-395-4900. Seafood Like sitting in an upscale fish house in New England – that’s the intention. Windows on three sides present an impeccable view of Lake Michigan. Serves a stellar buffet-style Sunday brunch. The oyster bar and caviar service are highlights. L D

BR ✹ l $$$-$$$$

HELLO FALAFEL

2301 S. Howell Ave., 414-509-5924. Middle Eastern,

Vegetarian Besides offering homemade falafel, this low-key Bay View joint makes fresh-squeezed juices and good salads (quinoa tabbouleh) and sides (charred halloumi cheese, fried cauliflowe­r). Counter-service. LD l $

HINTERLAND ERIE STREET GASTROPUB

222 E. Erie St., 414-727-9300. American Nouveau The menu veers between elegant (pan-seared duck) and casual (burger) and offers great weeknight bar specials like $5 pho (Mondays) and $3 tacos (Tuesdays). D ✹ ) $$$-$$$$

HONEYPIE

2643 S. Kinnickinn­ic Ave., 414-489-7437. American

Nouveau Think about dessert first. The pies (honeypie to banana cream), cupcakes and other sweets are all made in-house. Take a seat in a booth under photos of somebody’s relatives and have a pasty, mac and cheese or a Wisconsin grass-fed beef burger. Now back to that other topic – pies. BL D BR l ✹ $$

HUAN XI

2428 N. Murray Ave., 262-732-5329. Chinese The restaurant offers typical Hunan, Cantonese and Szechuan dishes. An expansion in 2016 turned

Huan Xi into a hot pot restaurant, where you cook your meal at your table. L D $$-$$$

INDIA GARDEN

2930 N. 117th St., Wauwatosa, 414-235-9220. Indian A cozy fireplace and spacious booths combine with a huge menu of North and South Indian dishes. Of note: butter chicken, masala dosa, goat curry and the many types of naan. L D $$

IRIE ZULU

7237 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa, 414-509-6014.

African, Jamaican The menus at this friendly, vibrant little restaurant highlight the cuisines of various African countries, as well as of the island country of Jamaica. Highlights: peanut butter stew, oxtail stew, jerk chicken. L D ) $$

IRON GRATE BBQ CO.

4125 S. Howell Ave., 414-455-1776. BBQ Chef/owner Aaron Patin moved his business specializi­ng in wood-smoked meats to a new location in summer 2017. His focus remains on meats, including the great Milwaukee Rib. Grits and mac and cheese are among the sides. Additions to the menu are in the works, as of this writing.

L D ) $$

JACKSON GRILL

3736 W. Mitchell St., 414-384-7384. American The low-key supper club indulges Milwaukeea­ns’ love of large portions. Loosen your belt and dig into the rib-eye or spicy purgatory shrimp. D

✹ l $$-$$$

JAKE’S RESTAURANT

21445 W. Gumina Rd., Pewaukee, 262-781-7995.

Steak A Waukesha County institutio­n offering classics like Jake’s filet mignon and Wisconsin Maple Leaf Farms roasted duck. D $$$$

JING’S CHINESE RESTAURANT

207 E. Buffalo St., 414-271-7788. Chinese Its Marshall building digs don’t offer street visibility, but ensure a cozy, in-the-know space. Count on staples of Chinese-American cuisine. If you’re looking for more authentic dishes, ask for the “other menu.” L D $$

JOW NAI FOUQUET

1978 N. Farwell Ave., 414-270-1010. Thai A tiny corner restaurant occupying the old location of Abu’s Jerusalem of the Gold. The appetizers, tom ka soup and curries (green, especially) are particular­ly good. Takeout and delivery are available, too. Open weekends only. D $$

KEGEL’S INN

5901 W. National Ave., 414-257-9999. German Wash down a plate of hearty pork shanks or wiener schnitzel with one of the bar’s nine German tap beers. With a history dating to the 1920s, this institutio­n is also known for its fish fry (walleye, bluegill, lake perch). LD $$-$$$

KYOTO

7453 W. Layton Ave., 414-325-1000. Japanese Often packed with diners jonesing for unagi bowls and udon noodles. Fresh sushi is the main draw to this Greenfield strip mall. L D $-$$$

LA MERENDA

125 E. National Ave., 414-389-0125. Tapas/Small

Plates The global menu at Peter Sandroni’s Walker’s Point haunt highlights India to Italy, Argentina to Morocco. Choices come and go; if you find empanadas, pumpkin ravioli and Argentinia­n beef, go with them. LD ) ✹ $-$$

LAKE PARK BISTRO

3133 E. Newberry Blvd., 414-962-6300. French Bartolotta-owned and set in historic Lake Park Pavilion, LPB has the decorative elements of a French farmhouse. Try: steak tartare, Dover sole and chocolate gateau. L D BR l $$$-$$$$

LAZY SUSAN

2378 S. Howell Ave., 414-988-7086. American

Nouveau Owner A.J. Dixon’s mantra is eclectic, shareable small plates (and her restaurant’s design motif includes Lazy Susans). Menus have included pan-seared skate wing and Brazilian steak frites. Three cheers for the Wednesday night Dinner for Two prix fixe menu. D BR $-$$$

LE RÊVE PATISSERIE & CAFE

7610 Harwood Ave., Wauwatosa, 414-778-3333.

French Breakfast is simple counter-service fare like quiche and croissant sandwiches. Solve your lunch dilemma with a croque-madame. Come dinner, hit up the bouillabai­sse, grilled lamb or steak au poivre. Finish with pastries – lots of them. BL D ✹ l) $$$

MARIA’S PIZZA

5025 W. Forest Home Ave., 414-543-4606. Pizza One of the city’s most singular restaurant­s and the home of wonderful amoeba-shaped pizzas, for dine-in or carryout. The interior is decorated with religious and holiday finery. No liquor license. D $$

MASON STREET GRILL

425 E. Mason St., 414-298-3131. American Nouveau

Steak The best seat in the house is at the kitchen counter, where you can watch the chefs make your crab cakes and NY strip. The bar offers live music and a nifty separate menu. L D

✹ ) $$-$$$$

MAXIE’S

6732 W. Fairview Ave., 414-292-3969. Cajun/Creole,

Seafood, BBQ While the decor conjures up a pseudo-bordello, the cuisine takes off in various directions: BBQ (really fine beef brisket), raw oysters from the coasts, Louisiana jambalaya, and “low country” South Carolina specialtie­s like frogmore stew. Dl ✹ $$-$$$

MCBOB’S PUB & GRILL

4919 W. North Ave., 414-871-5050. Bar, American It’s hard to beat the Reuben served at this hardworkin­g, no-frills bar. McBob’s even does a corned beef-stuffed meatloaf. BL D BR $-$$

MERAKI

939 S. Second St., 414-897-7230. American

Nouveau The intriguing Victorian “steampunk”-designed interior offers seating at high-backed leather booths and a counter facing the open kitchen. The menu changes seasonally and can include a seafood pancake or smoked pork shoulder with sweet potato buttermilk biscuits. L D $$-$$$

MERRIMENT SOCIAL

240 E. Pittsburgh Ave., 414-645-0240. American

Nouveau The old warehouse space’s garage doors make this an open-air venue in summer. A “dim sum” cart offers dumplings, which supplement the small- and large-plate menu. Serves an exceptiona­l burger. D BR ✹ ) $$

MILWAUKEE ART MUSEUM’S CAFÉ CALATRAVA

700 N. Art Museum Dr., 414-224-3831. American

Nouveau You’d expect a resto at the Quadracci

PavilionEn­trées areto be inspired bright, by modern feature and exhibition­s. anti-cafeteria.L

Br ✹ $$

MILWAUKEE CHOPHOUSE

633 N. Fifth St., 414-226-2467. Steak The wedge salad, twice-baked potato and NY strip are served in a suitcoat-appropriat­e room full of dark wood and leather furniture, and manned (and womaned) by waitstaff who scrape the crumbs off the table. D $$$-$$$$

MR. WOK Silvernail Plaza, 2128 Silvernail Rd., Pewaukee, 262-521-9780. Pan Asian Behind the veneer of Chinese food is a solid foundation of Pan-Asian dishes, and they are good. Best of the bunch: Malyasian curry chicken, mee goreng (noodles) and rendang chicken. L D $$

MOREL

430 S. Second St., 414-897-0747. American

Nouveau You’ll find morel mushrooms on occasion. And lots of rich preps of duck, lamb, beef and fish. If you don’t mind a little heat, the few seats at the kitchen counter (in view of the chefs) are the most entertaini­ng spots in the house. D ✹ ) $$$

MOVIDA

524 S. Second St., 414-224-5300. Tapas/Small Plates The interior says “reclaimed old Milwaukee storefront.” Weekly live flamenco guitar, and flowing gin and tonics, say “Madrid.” Pair them with croquetas (fritters) and tostas (open-faced sandwiches). D BR $-$$

THE NATIONAL

839 W. National Ave., 414-431-6551. American Sometimes a pan of biscuits or brownies will be cooling on the lunch counter when you stop in for a turkey club or a bowl of tonkotsu ramen. The charming counter-service cafe also serves a super breakfast, options including a stuffed avocado and breakfast rice bowl. BL ✹$

NORTH AVENUE GRILL

7225 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa, 414-453-7225.

American On the busy stretch of North Avenue in Tosa, this casual diner packs ’em in for weekend breakfast. Menu highlights include housemade corned beef hash, breakfast skillets, burger and Cuban sandwich. BL D ✹ $

NORTH SHORE BOULANGERI­E

4401 N. Oakland Ave., 414-963-2153. Cafe, French The French bakery, co-owned by a graduate of Chicago’s The French Pastry Institute, produces wonderful croissants and breads. Lentil soup, salade nicoise and croque monsieur round out the lunch menu. B L Br $

ODD DUCK

2352 S. Kinnickinn­ic Ave., 414-763-5881. Tapas/

Small Plates The menu is diverse, most definitely not odd. Bein’ inventive might be the prerequisi­te for working here. Small plates are separated under “Animal” and “Vegetable.” D

l ✹ ) $$

OSCAR’S PUB & GRILL

1712 W. Pierce St., 414-810-1820. Burgers The bar focuses on more or less one thing: burgers. Bring your voracious appetite for the Big O with a side of sweet potato fries. LD ✹ l $

PALOMINO

2491 S. Superior St., 414-747-1007. American “Cold beer, hot whiskey” is part of the slogan for this Bay View bar, nestled near Groppi’s Market. It’s also your portal to Southern deliciousn­ess like baked pimento cheese, fried chicken and biscuits and shrimp po’ boy. L D BR ✹ ) $$

PASTICHE BISTRO AND WINE BAR Hotel Metro, 411 E. Mason St., 414-482-1446; 4313 W. River Lane, Brown Deer, 414-354-1995. French Confusion may ensue upon entry. Is this Milwaukee or a farmhouse in France? Calling your name, in French: fried frog legs, ratatouill­e and cassoulet. D l $$$

PEKING HOUSE

782 N. Jefferson St., 414-763-9378. Chinese Bypass General Tso’s chicken for the house specials, including Szechuan hot pot. Hot, spicy food is easy to procure here. LD l $-$$

PIZZA MAN 2597 N. Downer Ave., 414-272-1745; 11500 W. Burleigh St., Wauwatosa, 414-249-2000; Drexel Town Square, 7974 S. Main St., Oak Creek, 414-856-1000. Pizza The owners are building an empire out of thin-crust pizza topped with everything from

cream cheese to meatballs. L D BR ✹ l) $$-$$$

RED LIGHT RAMEN BY ARDENT

1749 N. Farwell Ave., 414-837-5107. Japanese Serves its own menu of seafood tins, snacks and soups. Start with a seafood tin, followed by a tonkotsu (pork broth) ramen and boozy slushie. D $

RICE ’N ROLL BISTRO

1952 N. Farwell Ave., 414-220-9944. Japanese, Thai The little kitchen that can hold its own with sushi and Thai dishes like drunken noodle. Try the signature maki rolls and entrées like Born to Kill (seafood in a rice cracker shell). L

D l $$$

RISTORANTE BARTOLOTTA

7616 W. State St., 414-771-7910. Italian The old family photos and unpretenti­ous, tight-fitting dining room make diners feel at home. Head chef Juan Urbieta keeps folks coming back for the brick-style chicken and hand-cut pappardell­e with duck ragu. D l $$$

ROCHESTER DELI

143 W. Broadway, Waukesha, 262-522-9611.

American, Sandwich A shop that gives its all to the sandwich. The hand-carved corned beef Reuben is among the area’s best. Also consider the sandwich of carved-to-order pastrami and

horseradis­h sauce on caraway rye. LD ✹$

SALA

2613 E. Hampshire St., 414-964-2611. Italian Red walls and colorful canvases populate the dining room at this casual spot near UW-Milwaukee. Pastas are solid. Start with an app like baked goat cheese in tomato-basil sauce. LD ✹ $$-$$$

SANFORD RESTAURANT

1547 N. Jackson St., 414-276-9608. American

Nouveau Founded by James Beard Awardwinni­ng chef Sanford D’Amato; owned by JBA winner Justin Aprahamian. Unsurpasse­d for service and food. The global cuisine incorporat­es products from a long list of Wisco farms. Elk, duck, fresh fish are all good choices. Dessert is compulsory. D l)

$$$-$$$$

STORY HILL BKC

5100 W. Bluemound Rd., 414-539-4424. American

“BKC” stands for “Bottle, Kitchen, Cup.” The

charming storefront has a great 3-5 p.m. happy hour menu and “Upper Midwest”-inspired evening meals. L D BR $$-$$$

SUPPER Shorecrest Hotel, 1962 N. Prospect Ave., 414-5096074. American Supper club that walks the line between traditiona­l and modern. The tables inside the low-lit dining room hold some club trademarks, including a relish tray and Lazy Susan. D $$$-$$$$

THE TANDEM

1848 W. Fond du Lac Ave., 414-885-1919. American Soul and comfort foods are the focus, plus the Southern American staple of fried chicken and sides. L D BR $

TAQUERIA EL CABRITO

1100 S. 11th St., 414-385-9000. Mexican A great little near-South City haven for tacos (goat, chorizo), substantia­l soups and tortas. BL D $

TESS

2499 N. Bartlett Ave., 414-964-8377. American

Nouveau An easy little west-of-Oakland spot to roll into for apps at the bar or a more organized affair in the white-tablecloth dining room. Bonus points for the cozy, private garden patio. D✹ $$$

THIRD COAST PROVISIONS

724 N. Milwaukee St., 414-323-7434. Seafood Elegant multi-level place for fresh, chargrille­d and fried oysters; lake fish (when available); and seafood. Don’t miss: shrimp and grits, lobster potholes, surf and turf. D $$$$

THREE BROTHERS BAR & RESTAURANT

2414 S. St. Clair St., 414-481-7530. Serbian This

Bay View institutio­n still has a Schlitz brewery globe suspended over the bar – a piece of historic MKE in an otherwise old-world

bubble. Cevapcici (sausage), beef burek and chicken paprikash are not to miss. D ) $$$

TOFTE’S TABLE

331 Riverfront Plaza, Waukesha, 262-408-5633.

American Nouveau An informal, warm storefront is the setting for former Eddie Martini’s chef Jason Tofte’s diverse (and delicious) shareable plates. Try the duck confit tostadas, fried chicken drumstick, and meatloaf and mashed potatoes. D $$

TRE RIVALI Kimpton Journeyman Hotel, 200 N. Broadway, Suite 100, 414-291-3971. American Nouveau The high-profile hotel resto offers nibbly plates and larger creations such as the heritage pork chop.

BD ✹ $$-$$$

TRISKELE’S

1801 S. Third St., 414-837-5950. American The menu is divided into meat, seafood and vegetarian categories (the Celtic “triskele” symbol has three interlocke­d spirals). Terrific: mussels, burgers and mac and cheese. D $$ •

URBAN BEETS CAFE & JUICERY

1401 N. Martin Luther King Dr., 414-800-6265.

Vegan, Vegetarian This bright little cafe offers beaucoup options for diners who avoid gluten and dairy products. Try a smoothie bowl and the U.B. avocado Reuben. BL l $

VANGUARD BAR

2659 S. Kinnickinn­ic Ave., 414-539-3593. Sausage Cheddarwur­sts, chili dogs and other links are the modus operandi of this counter-service sausage emporium, which is also serious about whiskey and bourbon. L D BR ✹ ) $

WOLF PEACH

1818 N. Hubbard St., 414-374-8480. American

Nouveau The restaurant on Brewers Hill boasts a stellar skyline view. The name is an homage to the tomato, which appears in the wood-fired pizzas and much more. D BR ✹l

$$-$$$

WY’EAST PIZZA

5601 W. Vliet St., 414-943-3278. Pizza From the same folks who used to run a Portland, Oregon, pizza camper. Try the aptly named Hot Marmot. D ✹ $$-$$$

XANKIA

222 W. Wells St., 414-817-0241 Vietnamese A muststop if you’re into bahn mi sandwiches (eight kinds), but the menu also has pho, bubble tea and noodle dishes. L D $-$$

ZAFFIRO’S PIZZA

1724 N. Farwell Ave., 414-289-8776. Pizza MKE oldstyle pizza, cracker-thin. Sausage and cheese is a standby, but experiment and find your favorite. LD l $$ •

ZARLETTI

741 N. Milwaukee St., 414-225-0000. Italian The modern space is devoted to classic, regional cuisine. Order osso bucco or rack of lamb. Tiny and intimate. LD ) ✹ $$$-$$$$

ZARLETTI MEQUON

1515 W. Mequon Rd., Mequon, 262-241-5990. Italian Sister of the MKE Street Zarletti, this place offers brick-oven pizzas. Try the arancini, house-made burrata cheese, seafood stew and braised short ribs. LD ✹ BR $$-$$$$ ◆

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