Once, twice, three times the sushi
Three new local shrines to raw fish and where they shine.
The second location of Kawa Sushi (2321 N. Murray Ave., 414-800-7979) is hipper and more noodly than its North Shore sister. Raw and cooked Japanese dishes get equal play, including four kinds of ramen. The tempura (apps start at $5) is light and crisp, the gyoza al dente ($5), with a deliciously salty dipping sauce. Like it raw? Order the 19-piece sashimi deluxe with
rice ($24). Mmm. Hunker down at the sushi bar inside Hungry Sumo
(2663 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414595-9656), nod hello to the sushi chefs and get down to some raw business. Sumo’s food artists, led by co-owner Thitichai “Jif” Rukchon, make a variety of maki, classic and contemporary. You can’t go wrong with a simple spicy tuna maki ($6.95), but there are some dynamite fancy maki, such as Black Tokyo (with black rice, spicy shrimp and jalapeno topped with super-white tuna, $14.95) and Very Crunchy ($11.95), a deep-fried whole roll with shrimp tempura, cream cheese, crab and avocado). In a tiny strip mall co-occupied by Starbucks, Sushi
Go! (2110 E. Oklahoma Ave., 414-333-5565) specializes in the trend-setting sushi burrito – or sushirrito! All that separates the burrito from a seaweed nori roll is its larger size and shape. Sushi Go, which started as a food truck in 2015, has expanded its truck operation to sunny digs offering happy-hour mini sushi burritos, two kinds of ramen (plus a daily ramen special) and a full drink menu. You’ll need no additional sides when you order this wrap. Props also to the flavorful, filling Tuna-Geddon ($14), whose plentiful, fresh yellowtail and ahi tuna go smashingly with cucumber, avocado, green onion, rice, tobiko and soy-wasabi glaze.