Cook­ing Sim­ply

This James Beard Award win­ner’s new cook­book shows a prac­ti­cal ease that makes recipes true keep­ers.

Milwaukee Magazine - - DINING - By ANN CHRIS­TEN­SON

Dorie Greenspan – cook­book au­thor and New York Times food colum­nist – is the rea­son there ex­ists a but­tery, choco­laty recipe of hope called World Peace Cook­ies. Which seems like just the thing we need right now. The two-bite de­light has per­haps be­come the five-time James Beard Award win­ner’s trade­mark, but this can­did, un­af­fected “home cook” (as she calls her­self ) cred­its the recipe to world-renowned French pas­try chef Pierre Hermé. Ev­ery­day Dorie, Greenspan’s 13th cook­book, is the rea­son she’ll be in MKE on Satur­day, Nov. 3, for a three-course lun­cheon at Lake Park Bistro that will show­case her own dishes. Greenspan talked by phone from her Paris home about sim­plic­ity and the Zen of cook­ing. MM: Ev­ery­day Dorie has an over­ar­ch­ing homey theme with some fancier things, but mostly un­fussy dishes that make you want to race home to cook din­ner. Does this re­flect you right now? DG: Yes! The more I cook, the sim­pler it gets. When I started, I taught my­self to cook and bake and I only did com­pli­cated things. I con­cen­trated less on fla­vor than learn­ing tech­nique. Now I want sim­ple

food and a sur­prise – a spice or herb, a fla­vor combo that’s new, an ad­di­tion that bright­ens. MM: What is the big­gest take­away from your book? DG: My hope is peo­ple will make a recipe, then play around with it and make it their own. I think a recipe chal­lenges peo­ple to be present. When we are cook­ing and bak­ing, we are en­gag­ing all our senses. We’re lis­ten­ing to the sound of the beat­ers, the scent of the lemon we’re cut­ting and what the slice looks like. I want peo­ple to en­joy the process as much as the re­sult. MM: There can be frus­tra­tion with recipes that have you buy­ing ob­scure in­gre­di­ents, only to use them once. How do you ad­dress that? DG: So many of the recipes I ended up us­ing in the book came about be­cause I opened my re­frig­er­a­tor and looked at the door, ‘Oh, I have this and that.’ It turns out it’s great to have that! Those are ‘on a whim’ ad­di­tions we can use to make a dish pop. Use what you have! When peo­ple see the gochu­jang [a spicy Korean condi­ment] in my beef stew, it’s an in­vi­ta­tion to use it else­where. And miso paste [in a glazed sal­mon recipe]. Don’t be afraid to ex­per­i­ment.

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