Bastion of Fine Dining
Trend-bucking Sebastian’s in quiet Caledonia seems to have the recipe for survival.
Two hostesses check in diners at an officiallooking podium, a few dollar bills peek out of the tip jar outside the coatroom, and a very young busboy shows impressive mastery filling water glasses without spilling a drop. These are traditional touches that just aren't customary anymore.
Sebastian's (6025 Douglas Ave., Caledonia), which began its tenure of traditional fine dining (filet mignon, duck breast) in 2000, feels like a comfy old sweater. The big hodgepodge decorative wall art and rustic colored glass panels are so familiar to me, though it's well over a decade since I've been here. I remember what made the food special here – the sauces. Chef Scott Sebastian's cooking folded in elements of classic French cuisine (a béarnaise sauce, for example) with the less fussy benchmarks of nouvelle cuisine. The kitchen turned out hit after hit, and the waitstaff understood hospitality.
Twenty-plus years later, Sebastian's is an unchanged delight. Everything I ordered on a long-overdue revisit back in fall made me never want to eat another butter board or gluten-free small plate again. I lie – I do love dining's evolutions. But I also love tradition. I found it on a plate of beggars' purses ($15) – crisp crepe-like bundles stuffed with warmly spiced chicken and served with garlic-butter-molasses sauce. I also found it on a platter of seared sushi-grade yellowfin tuna with wasabi, pickled ginger and seaweed salad ($18). It conjured memories of the 1990s' menu-omnipresent tuna tartare. Sandwiched between the apps and entrées was an artfully designed (and delicious) roasted beet salad with crispy prosciutto and house-made labneh cheese ($10). In the main course department, Sebastian's did not disappoint with either its fork-tender filet mignon with rich dauphinois (like fancy scalloped) potatoes, beef demi-glaze and classic, luscious béarnaise ($48); or pan-seared scallops with pearl onions and leek risotto ($39). Co-owner Cory Sebastian has a theory about the restaurant's longevity, and it's simple: “In 24 years, we've seen all the trends [cycle through]. Classic never goes out of style.”