Montrio Bistro gets new head chef
When British chef Tony Baker landed on this side of the pond in the 1990s, he faced some significant skepticism.
At that time, much of the world associated British food with frugality and that stiff-upper-lip rationing that set a somber culinary tone following the Second World War. For generations,
Brits stewed and battered bland ingredients into submission, with chefs constrained by a climate not conducive to sourcing much fresh, seasonal food.
So when Montrio Bistro hired Baker in 1997 to take over for its original chef Brian Whitmer, the 26-year-old, Bristol, England native knew he had his work cut out for him.
“I had big shoes to fill after Brian,” he said. “He was a local celebrity.”
Well, it turned out more than OK for Baker and the rest of us, as the creative Brit fit in nicely, turning the Old Monterey restaurant into a local institution. A leader in serving fresh, seasonal and local ingredients, the green leading Montrio is widely regarded as one of the Peninsula’s finest restaurants.
Last week Baker hung up his Montrio chef jacket, retaining his partnership in the restaurant but leaving the day-to-day grind to Justin Robarge, hired in September of
2018 as chef de cuisine.
Baker calls his 22-plus years at Montrio “a wild ride.”
“It was a big deal for me at 26 years old,” he said. “I’ve had a lot of fun.”
But now, he said, it’s time to spend more time with “pig parts.” Founder and owner of Baker’s Bacon, the lifelong chef will step away to promote his brand nationally.
Baker said he will miss his Montrio “family,” but that it’s time for Robarge to take over. “Justin has been running the kitchen for over a year now while I maintained the title,” Baker posted on social media. “It took me that long to come to terms with the reality I guess.”
Some of Baker’s classic dishes include: beerbraised veal cheeks with red cabbage, mustard, potatoes and fresh horseradish; bacon and egg salad; bacon-poached egg and waffle; 48-hour bacon with pickled apples; duck popcorn; and Baker’s mum’s Christmas pudding.
“Justin has been busting his butt at Montrio for the past year-plus,” Baker said. “He has proven himself with our staff and I couldn’t be happier to be handing over the kitchen to Justin. He’s a great chef and, more importantly, a great family man.”
For Robarge, who has toiled in kitchens from the age of 16 as a prep cook in his hometown of Keene, New Hampshire, it’s a dream come true. All along, his goal has been to find a restaurant workplace that felt like family — where he would have the flexibility to raise his own. He knew Montrio was a good fit during his first week on the job when owner Tony Tollner bought his 5-year-old twins (a boy and a girl) tiny chef jackets. Visitors to the Tuesday farmers market in Old Monterey see Robarge towing his kids in his veggie wagon, looking for the best local produce.
“It’s cool, local, fun, seasonal cuisine, following in the footsteps of Baker, a phenomenal chef who set the tone,” said Robarge.
“It feels good knowing he has faith in me.”
March is a key month for Robarge and Montrio. He will launch his own spring menu — without sacrificing classic Montrio items, of course. On March 12, Robarge will take over for Baker at the Eighth annual Fund for Homeless Women event (ticket link at www.montrio.com), with all proceeds benefiting women living without shelter on the Peninsula.
Finally, on March 25, the restaurant will celebrate its 25th anniversary with a special winemakers dinner. A trio of chefs — Whitmer, Baker and Robarge — will prepare the food for the event, but all eyes will be on the new guy.
“I spent the year really understanding the culture at Montrio — the family, the history, the expectations,” Robarge said. “It will be the same Montrio service and food, but with my stamp on it.”
Awards dinner honors champions of hospitality
Here’s a question to ponder: Would you rather have amazing food and poor service, or just average food and impeccable service?
The best restaurants deliver on both ends, of course. Given the choice, I would have to choose amazing food while suffering through rudeness, apathy and neglect.
The best service in the world won’t make up for horrid food. However, great service can turn things around in a hurry. A kitchen’s mistake followed quickly by a graceful apology, a new dish and a complimentary glass of wine can transform an experience into something heartwarming.
For the 10th year, the John “Spud” Spadaro Hospitality Awards Dinner will honor those on the front lines of customer service. These are the folks who create the atmosphere, correct mistakes and make us want to return.
The dinner is Friday (5-9 p.m.) at Monterey Elks Lodge. No host cocktails begin at 5 p.m., with dinner at 6, followed by the awards ceremony. Tickets are $38 in advance through www. montereybaytickets.com, or $42 at the door. Proceeds support scholarships for students at the Monterey Peninsula College Culinary School.
The event honors the late Spardaro, who ran his family’s restaurant Tutto Bono in Monterey, followed by Spado’s in Salinas. Known for supporting community causes, Spadaro founded and organized the annual Lenten Dinners at Madonna Del Sasso Church in Salinas, served as a board member of the Santa Rosalia Festa Italia, and coached youth sports.
The annual award honors Spadaro and his commitment to the service of others.
The 2019 award recipients include: Anna Vindiola, Esteban; Jerry Ogle, Golden Tee; Regina Morrison, The Beach House at Lovers Point;
Sal Tedesco, Paluca Trattoria.
In addition, four Lifetime Achievement recipients will be honored: Rosa Catalano, Cibo Ristorante Italiano; Pierre and Marietta Bain, Fandango; Joe Rombi (retired), La Piccola Casa.
The menu for the evening? Breaded Italian steak, green beans, ovenroasted potatoes, salad, dessert and coffee. One should expect warm, welcoming service — Spud style.