Beadwork/ Quillwork
Porcupine quillwork in North America dates back to the 6th century. Designs of the time were made up of wide or narrow lines comprising a series of close stitches. Decorations varied based on item and meaning—designs on men’s garments were typically related to hunting and war, whereas designs on children’s garments leaned towards the symbolic, representing prayers for safety and prosperity. Early beadwork followed as tribes began creating their own beads from shells, bones and stones. With the arrival of European traders (and new materials) to North America through developing trade routes came an artistry never before seen among Lakota, Cheyenne and Arapaho tribes.
Although rooted in tradition, the most common motif between beadwork and quillwork artists today is innovation. From the intricate designs and patterns they create to the objects themselves—think beaded dolls, sculptures, shoes, portraits, clothing and accessories— the sky’s the limit for today’s leading and up-and-coming beadwork artists. With this in mind, it’s no wonder the art form has grown to become one of the most dynamic categories at the Santa Fe Indian Market.
Not Afraid made this fully-beaded rose clutch from smoked deer hide and vintage cut beads. The beads were hand sewn on using a two needle appliqué beading technique, and the piece is lined with stingray leather and black Italian lambskin. “The personality and aesthetic behind the design and construction of my beadwork ranges from various Apsáalooke traditions to goth, punk and beyond,” he says.
“My work is a blend of traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics and materials. I’m inspired by the rich colors of glass seed beads. The designs I make are symmetrical and inspired by abstract florals. I love to use high quality materials such as silk, semi-precious stones, brain-tanned buckskin and Czech seed beads.”
“As a Dakota woman and mother, I am committed to preserving and sharing traditional art forms and life ways, which I accomplish by teaching my community through workshops. I honor my ancestors through the art forms I choose to focus on and revitalize such as quillwork and beadwork in Dakota floral style. For my people there was always a deep purpose and meaning to why things were done which was fueled by their relationship to the land and animals."