Sailing Croatia’s ADRIATIC COAST WITH GOOLETS
The crystalline waters of the Adriatic surrounding the coast of Croatia have been attracting a diverse array of sailors over the millennia. From the Greeks, Romans, and Venetians, an array of invaders continued until today’s travelers, who now visit to enjoy its many features. Known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” Croatia’s touristic appeal has been growing exponentially since 2000.
With a coastline stretching over 1,700 km (1,100+ mi), featuring countless coves and bays, Croatia boasts the most jagged coast in the Mediterranean region. More than 1,200 islands dot these waters and the sailing and yacht charter segments have been keeping pace with the country’s growing appeal.
With selling points like warm, sunny weather, historic features blended with charming cities, and a wealth of natural features, it’s no wonder that Croatia just surpassed Greece and Turkey as one of the most popular destinations for yachting.
Our sailing story starts in Split, the gateway to the Adriatic, and involves our friends at Goolets, Ltd., our preferred charter organizer for Croatia which arranged for us to discover a few destinations aboard their majestic 48m (157 ft) M/Y Cristal. Over the last 20 years, Goolets has risen to become Croatia’s premier crewed superyacht charter agency. With offices in multiple countries and worldwide relationships that ensure seamless charters in other popular destinations, Goolets is renowned for its bespoke crewed itineraries and is fast re-shaping the yachting industry with its ingenuity.
Split
Croatia’s “second city” after Zagreb, is a serious port town and its largest coastal city. We arrived into Split airport and were met by our driver -- also arranged by Goolets – who drove us to the old town of Split, where superyacht Cristal was awaiting our arrival.
Split requires, at minimum, a full day to enjoy some of its abundant charms. Originally a Greek settlement, it later became the “retirement home” of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who ascended the throne in 284 AD when the empire was already in ruin. By instituting many reforms, he managed to restore some of the empire’s former glory. He later abdicated, stealing away to Split to enjoy a sprawling waterfront property in his final years. The ruins of his 30,000 m² (323,000 ft²) palace constitute much of the actual structure of the old city, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From medieval times, the rooms, halls, and basements were converted into streets, alleys, and buildings. Today, these ancient walls are now occupied by arcades of shops and cafés that lend a romantic atmosphere to Split. Lovers of art, history, and architecture will be both intrigued and enchanted by this grand backdrop of the waterfront pedestrian area. It was here we found M/Y Cristal docked in a central spot of the promenade just in front of the Palace, an ideal starting point for our cruising itinerary.
As we stepped aboard M/Y Cristal, the warm and engaging crew welcomed us, setting the tone for a journey highlighted by incomparable warmth and service. The 15-cabin superyacht features stunning interiors, a variety of entertainment options, and an 11-member crew assuring unparalleled attention for total relaxation and adventures on the Adriatic. The expansive upper deck featured a bar, a six-person jacuzzi, a gym, and unparalleled ocean views.
Our crew guided us to our cabins on the main deck, which were beautifully designed, spacious, and warmly inviting, styled with a modern touch. Dressed in cooling neutrals of grey, taupe, and white with touches of silver within, the cabins featured enticing mattresses dressed in crisp white linens for comfort and sweet oblivion after a full day of playing on the water or touring on land. Cabins on the main deck featured sizeable windows offering gorgeous views of the passing islands, and the cabins below deck were intimate hideaways.
After a quick refresh, we headed to the main saloon where an abundance of tempting delicacies awaited, an introduction to the culinary journey that awaited us in the coming days. A large assortment of dishes perfectly presented on the main saloon tables: salads of the tenderest grilled octopus and shrimp, reimagined versions of local specialties, an assortment of cheeses, fruits, and much more. Everything was delicious and a worthy introduction and expansion of our senses into the richness of Croatian cuisine. The buffet-style breakfasts were resplendent both in presentation and taste, becoming a memorable start to each unforgettable day. Every meal aboard Cristal was a celebration of the Adriatic’s bounty, paired with the finest wines and imaginative cocktails crafted by the onboard chef and his expert team. The attentive crew ensured that every need was met, making each moment on the M/Y Cristal truly special. We spent our first night docked right in front of Diocletian’s palace.
Hvar
After breakfast the next morning, we departed for the island of Hvar. The day was extraordinary: perfect sun, no clouds, a refreshing breeze blowing in from the west, and calm seas. An ideal way to start a relaxing journey of discovery, it isn’t possible for a sailor to ask for more.
An island renowned for its endless sunshine and vibrant fields of lavender, its main town is also called Hvar. With lively piazzas, medieval architecture, and a hilltop fortress, the destination features a delightful blend of history and contemporary charm. Before reaching Hvar port, our captain visited an isolated bay, sheltered from the breeze, providing our first experience of the Adriatic’s crystal-clear waters. In October, the temperature was a blissful 25° C (77°F) with low humidity. The sun shone brilliantly and with water temperatures so comfortable, we felt we could swim for hours. When we eventually returned to Cristal, it was to enjoy her abundance of toys, including jet skis, SEABOBs, E-foils, paddleboards, a canoe, lots of floaties, and an inflatable slide.
After a full morning of water activities, we returned to lunch in the saloon. We relaxed as the captain headed Cristal to the port of Hvar. Goolets boasts the perfect spots in ports, ready to receive its yachts in central locations, and this was also the case as we approached Hvar. The city’s iconic Riva waterfront is among the most exclusive on the Adriatic. Docking the superyacht attested to the skill of our expert captain due to the limited space in helming a 48m superyacht.
With architecture both breathtaking and well-preserved, visitors to Hvar can return to Venetian’s maritime empire, when its vast network of ports were the point of contact between cultures. We decided to walk up to the fortress to watch the sunset, an essential activity for any late afternoon in Hvar. These ancient stairs had seen the passage of time with countless feet over the centuries ascending to take in the inspiring sunset view.
With the ancient city walls, the fortress formed an imposing stronghold when the Venetians completed it in the 13th Century. But many ancient visitors attracted by Hvar’s abundant charms were not as constructive. The walls sheltered the townspeople from invasions by the Ottomans in the 1500’s but could not withstand a later gunpowder explosion. The rebuild, known as the Spanish Fortress, was added to over the centuries under rule from the Austrians, French, Russians, and, finally, Yugoslavian socialists. At the beginning of 1992, Croatia was finally recognized as an independent state. With all the superyachts moored up and the picturesque, tourist-filled piazzas, it is hard to imagine the residents were caught up in a war less than 25 years ago.
At the fortress, we purchased some snacks and an excellent bottle of Croatian wine to toast the setting sun. The sun disappeared below the horizon, the church bells tolled, and the city magically illuminated. After an impressive dinner back onboard Cristal, we returned to the port once more for a stroll. The nighttime ambience was so exceptional, we wanted to enjoy it as long as possible.
Vis
The next morning, Cristal left the port, heading to Vis, the farthest inhabited island off the Croatian mainland, although not far enough to avoid the succession of invaders that figured in Hvar’s history. Fascinating Vis town is the administrative and cultural capital of Vis island, yet retains a charming, small-town atmosphere. While Vis has had more of a military presence over the centuries, it boasts just as much historic architecture and charming ambience as Hvar, yet is more serene and peaceful. At the foot of the wide Bay of St George, Vis welcomes yachts to its long harbour. From the harbour, a seaside promenade leads to highlights of the town, which include ancient Greek and Roman ruins, medieval buildings, and the Perata Tower, built as a defense against the Ottomans. Further west along the Prerov peninsula is the Franciscan church and monastery of St Jerome, constructed in the 16th Century on the foundations of a Roman theater. The church’s façade was marble repurposed from earlier Greek ruins when this town was known as Issa. We spent the late afternoon and evening walking this fascinating and picturesque district. Once again, Cristal enjoyed the best spot in the port, establishing the perfect base to explore.
The next morning, our captain took us to a secluded location along a stretch of coast and beach with no other people or yachts in sight. The location was so uniquely isolated that we spent all day and evening there. Following dinner onboard concluded by our now-customary cocktails, we heard music from the sundeck above only to discover that the captain had sent the tender to pick up a professional DJ to score our last night on Cristal with an inspired mix. The party lasted the whole night, consummate celebration of a perfect journey none of us would soon forget.
Naturally, the following day we overslept, but one last epic breakfast spread awaited before heading back to Split, where this dream journey would conclude. Goolets surpassed the average yacht charter and vacation experiences. Our journey evolved into an immersive expedition weaving luxury, history, culture, and the allure of the Adriatic. The crew aboard M/Y Cristal, her experienced captain, and the perfect coordination of this charter itinerary by the destination experts at Goolets created this exceptional experience that will remain in our memories for a lifetime.