New Haven Register (New Haven, CT)
Appetit Bistro opens its doors in South Norwalk
Six years after opening his Appétit Bistro in Port Chester, N.Y., Edwin Montoya has debuted a second location, bringing French cuisine to South Norwalk’s Washington Street Historic District.
Signs teasing the new restaurant went up months ago at the Washington Street location, and Montoya officially opened the restaurant doors in early September. He said he’s thrilled to join Norwalk’s dining scene.
“I just love the location.
It’s a foodie destination,” he said. “There are so many places, so many different restaurants, and I feel we’re going to bring something different to the area . ... There’s so much traffic, the diversity of the people — it’s just great.”
The bistro features floorto-ceiling windows, exposed brick walls and black banquette seating along the wall of the open dining room.
Chef/co-owner Ismael Carias, formerly of Crew Restaurant in Greenwich, is overseeing the kitchen, combining classic French dishes with others containing Mediterranean and Italian influences.
The menu in South Norwalk is the same as at the Port Chester location, Montoya said.
Popular appetizers include baked escargot en croute, moules marinières (mussels with white wine and garlic), tuna tartare and a classic salade Lyonnaise with frisée, bacon and a soft-poached egg.
Main courses include duck à l’orange, hanger steak frites with peppercorn sauce, moules frites, chicken paillard, and lemon sole with brown-butter caper sauce. The sole is “one of those dishes people can’t stay away from,” Montoya said.
Mediterranean and Italian inspiration show up in dishes like linguine aux fruits de mer, with shrimp, mussels and clams in a white wine butter sauce, and chicken scarpariello, with roasted potatoes and cherry peppers.
Appétit’s version of the Italian chicken recipe is a favorite in Port Chester, Montoya said, with guests driving from as far as an hour away for the specialty, and it’s already become a top dish in South Norwalk.
Dessert options include chocolate mousse, banana beignets with vanilla ice cream, and a banana split with brûléed bananas.
The Bistro’s beverage program features “classic bistro cocktails,” Montoya said, including a French 75 with sparkling wine, and a curated wine list heavy on French selections.
The restaurant, at 136 Washington Ave., is open Monday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m.; and Sunday from 5 to 9 p.m. 203-354-7344, appetitbistro.com.