New Haven Register (New Haven, CT)

Where to find Peruvian cuisine, the ‘original fusion food,’ in Connecticu­t

- By Leeanne Griffin

As Hispanic Heritage Month continues through Oct. 15, we’re spotlighti­ng Peruvian cuisine, once called the “original fusion food” by the New York Times.

Peruvian food is a multicultu­ral celebratio­n, melding indigenous Incan ingredient­s like potatoes, chili peppers, tomatoes and quinoa with global culinary influences from Europe, Africa and Asia.

Those new to the cuisine may be surprised to find fried rice (chaufa) and pesto-style pasta (tallarin verde) on Peruvian restaurant menus, influence from Chinese and Italian immigrants. And with its west coast bordering the Pacific Ocean, Peruvian food is also seafood-heavy, with emphasis on ceviche, seafood-based soups and fried fish and shellfish.

“There was a lot of Japanese and Chinese influence a couple centuries ago, as [immigrants] settled in Peru, especially in Lima,” said Wilson Rodriguez, who co-owns Pesca Peruvian Bistro in New Canaan and will open Ayahuasca Peruvian Kitchen in Norwalk next month.

The Asian inspiratio­n shows particular­ly in dishes like lomo saltado, Rodriguez said, where strips of beef (or other proteins) are flambeed and sauteed with tomatoes, onions, peppers and soy sauce and served over French fries and rice. Other popular dishes include pollo a la brasa, marinated whole chicken cooked on a rotisserie until the skin is goldenbrow­n and crispy, and served with French fries and salad.

Peru has become a popular spot for gastro-tourism in the past decade, winning a World Travel award for “World’s Leading Culinary Destinatio­n” eight years in a row.

“If you can beat Italy and France for that category, it’s pretty impressive,” said Bryant Aliaga, whose father, David, owns Empire of the Incas in Danbury.

With a sizable Peruvian population in the state, Connecticu­t boasts dozens of restaurant­s serving the cuisine, many concentrat­ed in cities like Hartford, Stamford, Bridgeport and Norwalk. Here’s a selection of some of the top-rated Peruvian restaurant­s in Connecticu­t:

Cora Cora West Hartford The popular eatery, in a former McDonald’s building, offers both dine-in and takeout options, with a full bar and expansive patio.

162 Shield St., 860-953-2672, facebook.com/coracorare­st

The Rockin Chicken Hartford

Rockin Chicken boasts the only charcoal rotisserie in the Hartford area for its pollo a la brasa, featuring an oven specially crafted and shipped from Peru.

476 Franklin Ave., 860-244-2536, therockinc­hicken.com.

Piolin Restaurant Sr. Hartford

This Hartford mainstay with daily specials also has a second location, Piolin II, on Franklin Avenue.

417 New Britain Ave., 860-293-1255, facebook.com/piolinrest­aurant.

Sabor Peru New Haven

Sabor Peru’s owners came to the United States in 2002 “with hopes and dreams,” bringing family recipes from Peru to eventually open the Elm City restaurant.

56 Main St. Annex, 203-780-8801, saborperun­ewhaven.com.

Acuario Stamford

The Peruvian restaurant and bar, with a variety of pisco cocktails, margaritas, sangrias and other specialty drinks, also has locations in Port Chester.

78 W. Park Place, 203998-7722, acuariores­taurants.com/stamfordct.

Munay Kitchen Norwalk

Munay’s menu offers traditiona­l dishes like ceviche, lomo saltado, chaufa and tallarin verde, and other specialtie­s like tunita apassionad­a, an appetizer of ahi tuna and passion fruit sauce.

280 Connecticu­t Ave., 203-899-0410, munaykitch­en.com.

Ceviche Palace Bridgeport

The popular restaurant offers happy hour at its pisco bar Monday through Friday, with cocktail specials (many featuring pisco) and snacks like mozzarella sticks with huancaina sauce, chicken wings and avocado salad.

1429 E. Main St., 203870-4404, cevichepal­acect.com.

El Rocoto Fairfield and Stamford

With two locations, El Rocoto features many of Peru’s most celebrated dishes: ceviche, anticuchos, soups, fish and seafood entrees, chaufa, saltados and steaks.

937 Post Road (Fairfield), 203-292-8707; and 1209

East Main Street (Stamford), 203-818-3225, elrocotore­staurant.net.

Empire of the Incas Danbury

The Danbury restaurant, which opened in 2005, features brightly colored wall murals (recently designed by artist Sean Maze) and cocktails like pisco and chicha sours, margaritas and mojitos. Empire of the Incas also received a grant from the city in 2020 to update its exterior façade.

241 Main St., 203-7444622, empireofth­eincasrest­aurant.com.

Pesca Peruvian Bistro New Canaan

Owners Wilson Rodriguez and Jose Draganac call Peruvian cuisine “unique and wildly beautiful,” and serve a seafoodfoc­used menu with assorted ceviches, paella de mariscos and their own twists on chaufa and pescado de lo macho. The partners will open Ayahuasca in South Norwalk this fall, with an emphasis on pollo a la brasa, ceviche and other authentic Peruvian dishes.

70 Main St., 203-5947400, pescaperuv­ianbistro.com.

 ?? Courtesy of Pesca ?? Restaurate­ur Wilson Rodriguez and chef Jose Draganac, the co-owners of New Cannan's Pesca Peruvian Bistro, are opening Ayahuasca Peruvian Cuisine in Norwalk this June.
Courtesy of Pesca Restaurate­ur Wilson Rodriguez and chef Jose Draganac, the co-owners of New Cannan's Pesca Peruvian Bistro, are opening Ayahuasca Peruvian Cuisine in Norwalk this June.
 ?? Joseph Antony / Contribute­d photo ?? Choritos a la chalaca (steamed mussels covered with chopped onions, corn, avocado, cilantro and lime juice) at Empire of the Incas in Danbury.
Joseph Antony / Contribute­d photo Choritos a la chalaca (steamed mussels covered with chopped onions, corn, avocado, cilantro and lime juice) at Empire of the Incas in Danbury.
 ?? Joseph Antony / Contribute­d photo ?? Papa a la huancaina at Empire of the Incas in Danbury.
Joseph Antony / Contribute­d photo Papa a la huancaina at Empire of the Incas in Danbury.
 ?? CTbites / Contributd photo ?? Lomo Saltado is a popular and traditiona­l Peruvian dish. It is a stir-fry that combines beef loin with onions, tomatoes, fried potato slices and white rice.
CTbites / Contributd photo Lomo Saltado is a popular and traditiona­l Peruvian dish. It is a stir-fry that combines beef loin with onions, tomatoes, fried potato slices and white rice.

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