New Haven Register (Sunday) (New Haven, CT)
City eatery reopens to very happy customers
NEW HAVEN — Customers of Street’s Smokehouse Boathouse in the Fair Haven neighborhood say when they’re sitting on the deck or patio of the eatery they feel like they’re on a vacation island with stunning sunsets and a chill, getaway vibe.
To add to the resort-like feel, they say, is owner Steven Streeter’s unique menu, including his signature superstar of a lobster roll that packs them in: fresh Rhode Island smoked lobster topped with garlic butter made from scratch on a roll from Apicella’s Bakery that’s toasted on both sides.
Some say it’s a hidden treasure.
“The atmosphere is so lighthearted, you feel like you’re on an island. The sunset is gorgeous. The food is phenomenal,” said Karen Leveque of New Haven who favors a drink with a scoop of watermelon Italian ice. “The smoked lobster is out of this world.”
She said Streeter adds to the special vibe as he’s “cheerful, energetic and happy go lucky.”
Streeter, 61, for many years a contractor, opened the restaurant on Front Street in the center of the Quinnipiac River Marina at the end of June 2020, when the country was in the grips of the pandemic.
First, he transformed the once-dilapidated building by replacing walls, electrical, plumbing and spruced up the surrounding outside space, including adding a walking path of crushed pink granite.
Marina owner Lisa Fitch said she loves what Streeter has done and said his seafood menu is a much better fit than the pizza served there previously.
“He brings a nice atmosphere to the marina,” Fitch said. “There’s definitely a nice vibe over there. It’s nice, relaxing and calm atmosphere.”
Streeter, known to most by the nickname “Street” was open for 100 days with great success but had to close in October when the weather got cold because he didn’t have enough indoor seating. Inside there is a 30-person capacity and on an outside deck with full view of the river there is a 45-person capacity. The patio holds 70 people.
Customers have a view across the Quinnipiac River from the deck and there’s lots of nature in sight, including osprey nests, he said.
He reopened two weeks ago and is delighted by the lines and warm return of customers.
“It’s insane how quickly this is happening,” he said. “I’m never going to get away from this. It’s so much fun. I really do pinch myself every day.”
Streeter, who grew up in East Haven, has lived on a houseboat at the marina for several years and said he likes that, “the restaurant is in my front yard.”
Always creative and sometimes admittedly over the top, Streeter doesn’t have any formal training culinary arts, but owned a deli in Milford and has experimented with food at parties with friends.
He said after his three children grew up he did a lot of socializing with friends and often wound up cooking for parties.
“I once made an absolute truckload of deviled eggs, 18 to 20 different flavors probably in the neighborhood of 1,500,” he said. “Once another time I converted a friolater to propane and I deep fried vegetables and seafood all day
long, dug a pit in my friend’s backyard and roasted a whole pig.”
A huge smoker is on the property because at first it was going to be a barbecue/ seafood place, but the former didn’t catch on while the seafood boomed. He nixed the barbecue menu.
Since he had the smoker anyway, Streeter decided to try it on seafood and came up with the popular lobster roll, a shrimp roll and a scallop roll.
That same creativity he brought to parties has fueled his menu and the details are thoughtful — no customer will see a shrimp tail and fresh lemon for a seafood pile up won’t leak into the French fries because they’re served on separate plates.
He offers fresh lobster dipped in batter, a dish called “Crab Apple” of crab made into shape of apple with a dimple on top and parsley for the stem. There are also the popular big
beef and pork meatballs stuffed with cream cheese, pepper jack cheese, jalapeños, wrapped in Applewood smoked bacon. They are baked and quickly deep fried to make the outside crispy.
“My mind wanders,” he said of coming up with recipes.
For those who don’t like seafood there’s fresh hamburger and no two look
alike, Streeter said — and local Hummel’s hot dogs, as well as chicken.
Even the competition has good things to say about Streeter’s place.
“I’ve tried Steve’s. It’s different, A lot of people are enjoying it,” said Bart Mansi, owner of Guilford Lobster Pound, who still prefers his more classic hot lobster roll with butter on a toasted hot dog roll. “He’s done a nice job there. He’s cleaned it up nice. It’s a nice thing for New Haven.”
Debbie Morris of East Haven, a boater whose family often eats there after a day on the water, said the food is “phenomenal” and the atmosphere “inviting.”
“I love that when you are at the restaurant sitting out on the deck you can close your eyes and smell the sea breeze and almost taste your food cooking. Makes my mouth water just thinking about it,” she said.
Morris said last year Streeter made a “huge over purchase on food,” and he gave it out to families in the neighborhood.
“He’s such a kindhearted person and personally makes sure you are having a good time while you are there,” she said.
Streeter said a bunch of firefighters showed up one day and the lines were too long.
So he visited the fire station another time and brought in so much food that a lieutenant told him, “that’s enough.”
Streeter, whose dad was a firefighter or 30 years, responded: “You’ll kick down my door and run through flames to save my life — this is only food.”
Customer Marge Dunning said Streeter is “a hoot.”
“I love that little place. I love the atmosphere, the foods great,” Dunning said. On the smoked lobster roll she adores, Dunning said, “I’ve never had anything like it.”
Outside, the building is gray and there’s a nautical theme throughout. He made the sign in the shape of a Viking sailboat and one of his decorative elements is a fish tank of mini-piranhas.
“You have to feel what we’re doing here, not just taste it,” Streeter said.