EASY PICKINS
A decade after Katrina, New Orleans is back as a top destination
Ten years after Hurricane Katrina devastated parts of New Orleans, The Big Easy is still bouncing back and rebuilding. But last year the Louisiana city saw a record-breaking $6.81 billion spent by tourists — and there’s good reason for it.
The French Quarter, one of the neighborhoods nearly untouched by floodwater from the storm that battered New Orleans on Aug. 29, 2005, remains a major draw for its gorgeous 18th century architecture, amazing restaurants, nonstop party vibe, art galleries and antique stores. But areas around the Quarter have now emerged as tourist destinations since the hurricane hit. Neighborhoods like Bywater, the Warehouse District and parts of Central City are luring visitors to branch out beyond the French Quarter with top-notch museums, eateries and arts scenes.
For a taste of old and new Nola, check out these neighborhoods on your next trip to one of America’s favorite cities.
FRENCH QUARTER
No trip to New Orleans is complete without spending time in the French Quarter. It’s the oldest ’hood in the city, and the entire district is a National Historic Landmark.
Start at Jackson Square, a beautiful park that dates back to 1721, and was designed to resemble the oldest planned square in Paris. Towering over the square is Saint Louis Cathedral. The park is a relaxing oasis with beautiful plants and trees, while the pedestrian zone that takes up three of the surrounding streets bustle with street performers and artists selling their work.
Head across the street to the original location of Cafe Du Monde (800 Decatur St., cafedumonde.com), world-famous for its coffee (dark roasted and blended with chicory) and beignets, French-style square doughnuts piled high with powdered sugar.
If you like a kick to your java, stop by one of the bars that make frozen Irish Coffee: Molly’s at the Market (1107 Decatur St., mollysatthemarket.net) or Erin Rose (811 Conti St., Erinrosebar.com). Grab it in a to-go cup, since public drinking in the Quarter is legal.
For snacks and souvenirs, walk to the French Market (1008 N. Peters St., frenchmarket.org), an open-air mall that’s the oldest public market in the country.
It stretches several blocks, with vendors ranging from crepe carts to oyster bars, and items for sale including gator jerky, “Nawlins Hot Voodoo Spice,” Mardi Gras masks, jewelry and herbs.
For a more substantial meal, make a reservation at one of the Quarter’s famed brunch spots. A favorite is Brennan’s (417 Royal St., brennansneworleans.com), which besides turning out delicious food influenced by the city’s French and Spanish roots, also boasts amazingly attentive service and a courtyard fountain filled with turtles.
Open since 1946, Brennan’s has survived family feuds, a 1975 fire, and some damage from Hurricane Katrina. It reopened last year after major renovations. Today, the brunch menu includes options like Turtle Soup and Artisinal Eggs Benedict, and you can add crab meat to nearly every option.
There are lots of tasty dessert options, but Bananas Foster is a must at Brennan’s, where it was invented in the early 1950s. Butter, sugar and cinnamon are heated in a flambe´ pan parked tableside, where banana liqueur, bananas and rum are added, firing it up. It’s all served over ice cream.
MARIGNY
A couple of blocks northeast of the French Quarter, in the ’hood of Marigny, is Frenchmen St. Unlike Bourbon St. in the Quarter — which is packed with loud bars, Mardi Gras-bead clad tourists and strip clubs — Frenchmen has a more laid-back, cool vibe. It’s lined with bars hosting live music from jazz to blues and reggae. Stop in the Frenchmen Art Market (frenchmenartmarket.com) — a nighttime market selling crafts made by local artists. On a recent visit, I saw stands selling everything from metal necklaces ($30) to “art for your table” — pretty paintings on wooden blocks, plaques or ornaments. The market is also a fun spot to pose for pictures in front of murals, artsy signs or in an oldschool telephone booth.
BYWATER
East of Marigny is Bywater, an artsy, up-and-coming area brimming with colorful cottages, antique shops, restaurants, and both a must-see record store and artist’s warehouse. The influence of those from France, Spain, the Caribbean and Africa who settled here in the 19th century can be be seen in the architectural styles.
Since many parts of Bywater that are close to the Mississippi River were spared from flood waters during Katrina thanks to high elevation, the nabe has seen an influx of young couples
and students from other states move in in recent years. There’s also a big gay and transgender community.
Enjoy lunch at Booty’s Street Food (800 Louisa St., bootysnola.com), serving international street food, inspired by one of the co-owners’ trips as a travel writer. Tasty options include include Thai Chicken Salad ($11; grilled lemongrass chicken, mango, papaya, sesame seed, peanuts) and Langos ($5; fried flatbread, fresh cow’s milk cheese, seasonal fruit compote). Expect the menu to change, because every three months the two-year-old eatery sends a different staffer to a location and asks that they bring back three new recipes. Use the restroom while you’re here — its walls double as an art installation.
On the corner opposite Booty’s, you’ll spot The Bargain Center (3200 Dauphine St.), a massive thrift store selling everything from $3 records, to books, furniture, clothes and wall decorations.
Head south on Dauphine and you’ll pass The Country Club (634 Louisa St., thecountryclubneworleans.com), where drag queens host brunches on select Saturdays with $15 bottomless mimosas.
One block over, you’ll find Euclid Records (3401 Chartres St., euclidnola.com), a multilevel gem housing new and used records and CDs, as well as magazines. Musical performances take place in-store and there’s even a section for “New Orleans” CDs.
Across the street, cool off with a frozen treat at Piety Street Sno-Balls (612 Piety St., 612piety.com), with house-made natural flavors ranging from Rosehips Raspberry to Vietnamese Coffee.
Take it with you to the arch-like walking bridge on the other side of Chartres St., which connects to Crescent Park along the Mississippi.
And don’t miss Dr. Bob Art (3027 Chartres St., drbobart.net), a funky, colorful studio and yard where this artist sells and stores his paintings, sculptures, and bottle-cap plastered plaques. He’s famous for his signs painted with the phrase “Be nice or leave.”
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
Also known as the Arts District, this ’hood sits west of the French Quarter. It still shows its roots of being an industrial area in the 19th century, but it’s blossomed into an artsy spot with lots of galleries and museums since the Contemporary Arts Center opened in 1976.
The district is home to the The National WWII Museum (nationalww2museum.org), ranked the the No. 1 attraction in New Orleans by TripAdvisor. The intense and emotional interactive exhibits will move and hold the interest of even those who aren’t history buffs — like “Beyond All Boundaries,” a 4D journey narrated by Tom Hanks. While watching the film, theater seats shake during battle scenes, “snow” falls from the sky when a soldier writes home for Christmas, and a bright white blinding light flashes to signify the atom bomb being dropped.
The museum’s newest exhibit, “The Road to Berlin,” gives an immersive experience as you walk through rooms like the European/Mediterranean Briefing Room (where countries on an onscreen map change color as it’s explained how and when each becomes involved with the war); and Battle of the Bulge, where visitors walk through a forest-like room complete with faux trees and snowy floors to represent the bitter cold soldiers faced in Europe’s Ardennes forest.
A day at the museum can work up an appetite, so head to Emeril’s New Orleans (emerilsrestaurants.com), the flagship restaurant of chef and TV personality Emeril Lagasse, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary. It’s easy to see why it’s lasted. Housed in a renovated warehouse, the fun, lively spot serves delicious, indulgent food prepared in an open kitchen.
Nola and Southern classics are given a fresh spin in dishes like House Made Andouille and Boudin Sausages ($10); Whole Truffle Fried Chicken For Two ($60); and Jerk Texas Quail & Gulf Shrimp ($30).
If you’re looking for lighter fare, head to Balise (balisenola.com), which is less than a year old and turning into one of the city’s hottest restaurants. Servers here recommend sharing several small plates rather than ordering entrees.
While the menu boasts cheeseburgers, and roasted lamb loin, after enjoying rich food elsewhere in Nola, it’s refreshing to have dishes like Yellowfin Tuna ($16); Summer Melons ($12, and served with crispy ham, cucumbers, red onion and pickled watermelon rind); and Beef Tartare ($14).
For a laid-back lunch, where outdoor seating is an option, try Grand Isle Restaurant (grandislerestaurant.com), which recently hired a new head chef who created a more seafood-focused menu. Opt for the Open-Faced Crawfish Boil PoBoy ($14).
At the New Orleans Glassworks & Printmaking Studio (neworleansglassworks.com), you’ll be drawn in by the cool glass sculptures in the front window, but you’ll stay when you see the artists in the back melting and glassblowing. Stop by and see if you can grab a seat to watch.
CENTRAL CITY
Central City is still rough around the edges and not as walkable as other parts of the city, but one strip is becoming a draw — Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard.
It’s where you’ll find both the The Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SoFAB) and The New Orleans Jazz Market.
Walk around the main exhibit room of SoFAB and you’ll see different sections dedicated to Southern states. The Louisiana exhibit, in addition to displaying boxes of Creole yams and other local highlights, also includes a history of the state’s important coffee roasting and distribution history. There’s also a room in the back where cooking demonstrations and classes take place. Sign up at sofabinstitute.org. The Jazz Market (phnojm.org), the new home to the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra, opened this year. The Market’s Bolden Bar, named for Central City jazz pioneer Buddy Bolden, is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 5 p.m., with live music nightly that’s free and open to the public.