Eco-tourist oasis beckons in little-visited Honduras

“Isn’t that the murder capital of the world?” That’s what roughly half of my friends responded when I said I was headed to Honduras. While the Central American country has held that unfortunate title in recent years — death and destruction is the last thing on your mind at the unspoiled Pico Bonito National Park, where my visit centered.

With its tropical rainforests, hiking, birdwatching and nearby snorkeling just south of the Caribbean coastal city of La Ceiba, the park, like Honduras in general, has all the relaxing benefits of more-touristed areas like Costa Rica, yet feels like virgin territory because so few people visit.

Sure, Honduras has a reputation for crime and government instability — and it has kept the bicoastal nation years behind its neighbors in preservation and eco-tourism. But in my weeklong trip to the north, I didn’t see any sign of crime. I did see armed guards on a local train, one on a beach and one at a gas station.

The perception of Honduras as dangerous has its benefits — great deals and undiscovered, pristine biodiversity — so it probably won’t be long before the area draws more tourists. Pico Bonito’s lush 270,000 acres of rainforest is one place the influx will start.

The park is celebrating its 30th year since it was carved out of the Nombre de Dios mountain range to become Honduras’ second largest national park — a wildlife-rich haven of tropical and cloud rainforests with amazing views of the coastline to the north.

Honduras is home to hundreds of birds — more than 500 bird species — and northern Honduras is the best place to see them. Also known as the toucan capital of the world, Pico Bonito is not only for those of us who are amazed by animals with such pretty colors, but for scientists who come to study and discover new species.

The park has miles of trails which you can explore on your own or with guides. The best times for birders are between August and March, when many migratory species are either passing through on their journey south, or living temporarily to escape the northern winter months.

The park is also home to monkeys, anteaters, tapir, kinkajous, reptiles and jaguars.

And there’s more than animals to look at: waterfalls, hikes through seven ecosystems up to the cloud forest, whitewater river rafting on the Cangrejal river, ziplining through the treetops and snorkeling off the world’s second largest barrier reef, not far from Pico Bonito.

There are numerous lodging options, including a camplike experience and a high-end luxury eco-resort, all of which offer guides and touring companies to help you navigate through the forests. I recommend a guide because the trails aren’t well marked, and only a seasoned local knows the best swimming holes, rivers and waterfalls.

My guide led me on an arduous, three-hour-plus hike to Unbelievable Falls, which ended with a jump into the pristine water — a rejuvenating respite from the forest heat and humidity, as well as a much-needed infusion of energy for the almost two-hour return climb back to our hotel. For those less interested in a three- to fourhour hike, there are gentler hikes and plenty of opportunities to observe the birds and other wildlife. Sometimes even without leaving your breakfast table.

Just outside Pico Bonito is exquisite snorkeling at Cayos Cochinos Marine Reserve, a 190-square-mile zone 10 miles off the coast of La Ceiba that comprises 15 protected islands and the world’s second largest coral reef. The clear waters are home not only to abundant tropical fish, but also the local Garinagus people, who are descendants of indigenous Carib Indians and West African slaves. My island-hopping tour included boa constrictor sightings and a typical lunch of fried fish, plantains and rice with beans in one of the Garifuna villages on an island so small, Nearby Pico Bonito and on the bank of the Cangrejal river, this rainforest resort owned by a Canadian couple offers views of and easy access to waterfalls and comfortable accommodations. The $196/night per person rate includes meals. This lodge also arranges tours. lascascadaslodge.com. is also on the Cangrejal river. Rates are $75-135/night for one- to threebedroom cabins and private apartments, including a treehouse. villaspicobonito.com/ home.