Bake your potato pancakes
Skip the mess of frying — serve crispy galettes de pomme de terre for Hanukkah
Hanukkah has one particular distinguishing characteristic to its traditional celebration foods: They are cooked in oil. That pays homage to the one-day supply of oil that miraculously kept the sacred lamp burning for eight days after Jewish patriots recaptured the temple in Jerusalem back in the 2nd century B.C.
This traditional cooking method is a lovely symbolic way to help share that story with children and adults alike, through two foods served most widely at Hanukkah parties: potato pancakes and jelly-filled doughnuts. I’ve certainly eaten my share of both.
I’m especially fond of potato pancakes. But, as anyone who has prepared them will tell you, a particular drawback comes with cooking them at home. The best ones are usually pan-fried in shallow oil. And, after you’ve made enough for everyone, your entire kitchen and dining area are likely to smell of oil; plus, your stovetop and surrounding areas may be covered with a fine, slick film. Because the aroma and the residue can linger for days, many cooks instead buy already-made pancakes from the deli or frozen ones that they crisp up in the oven.
So let me suggest a delicious alternative that comes, in fact, from country kitchens in France and other European countries: Make crispy, ovenbaked potato pancakes called galettes de pomme de terre in French.
My galettes recipe begins by shredding baking potatoes and squeezing out all their excess moisture to help them cook up as crisp as possible, the same way traditional Jewish cooks do. But that’s where the similarity ends. The cakes are then shaped to the full diameter of a skillet in which they’re briefly browned with a little butter or oil; then they’re transferred to a baking sheet to finish cooking in the oven, coming out golden brown and crispy as can be.
The following recipe yields four good servings (with each person getting half of a large pancake). But the recipe doubles or triples with only a little extra work; and, once you’ve partially cooked them on the stovetop, you can hold them for up to an hour before completing the baking in the oven.
In my recipe, I also offer two ways to serve the pancakes. Grown-ups may prefer my savory topping of smoked salmon with a shallot-dill sour cream. Both younger and older guests alike will enjoy the more traditional combination of applesauce and plain sour cream. Either way, please consider this recipe to be a Hanukkah present that goes on giving, as the savory version goes especially well with the Champagne or other sparkling wine you’ll be opening in a matter of weeks to serve on New Year’s Eve.
Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 25 minutes Makes: 4 servings Potato galettes:
3 baking potatoes, about 1 1⁄2 pounds total, peeled 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons of it melted in advance; or 4 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Savory topping: 1⁄2 cup sour cream 1 small shallot, minced 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 pound thinly sliced smoked salmon or other good-quality smoked fish Extra-virgin olive oil Freshly squeezed lemon juice Finely chopped fresh chives Sweet topping: 2 cups good-quality applesauce Ground cinnamon 1 cup sour cream
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. For the potato galettes, use the large holes on a box grater to coarsely shred the potatoes. Transfer them to a clean kitchen towel, roll up the towel around the potatoes, and, over the sink, carefully squeeze and twist the towel to extract as much liquid as possible. 2. Transfer the potato shreds to a bowl. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons melted butter (or 2 tablespoons of the oil), season with salt and pepper, and toss well. 3. In a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter (or heat the same amount of oil). Add half of the potatoes; pat them into an even disk about 1⁄2 inch thick. Cook until golden, carefully turning the cake over with a wide spatula, about 3 minutes per side. Slide the potato galette onto a baking sheet, leaving room for another.
4. Repeat the process with the remaining butter or oil and remaining potatoes, transferring the second cake to the baking sheet. Transfer the galettes to the oven; bake until deep golden brown and crispy, about 10 minutes. Transfer galettes to serving platters, and leave at room temperature, 15 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, prepare the toppings. If you’d like a savory topping, make the shallot-dill sour cream: Combine the sour cream, shallot, dill, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. Stir well with a wire whisk; check for seasonings. At serving time, cut the galettes in half, transfer to serving plates, and spread the sour cream mixture over them. Top with the smoked salmon or other smoked fish of your choice. Lightly brush the salmon with olive oil and lemon juice. Garnish with chives. 6. If you’d like a sweeter topping, transfer the applesauce to a serving bowl and lightly dust it with cinnamon. In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream with a wire whisk; then, transfer it to a serving bowl. At serving time, cut the galettes in half, and transfer to serving plates. Pass the applesauce and sour cream for guests to help themselves.
Nutrition information per serving (without the
toppings): 224 calories, 12 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 31 mg cholesterol, 28 g carbohydrates, 2 g sugar, 3 g protein, 248 mg sodium, 2 g fiber