Sant Ambroeus

Multiple locations

the standing coffee bar, the spiffy pink uniforms, the museum-quality pastry and panini displays: When Milanese export Sant Ambroeus touched down on Madison Avenue 40 years ago, it created a template that many would aspire to (including itself; Stateside branches now number ten and counting). Though there is no designated aperitivo hour, if you show up between lunch and dinner and, with the confidence of a practiced habitué, request some snacks to accompany your negroni variation (try the soda-topped Salted or the Rosato, with Lillet Blanc and pink gin), the kitchen will happily oblige. Recently we grazed contentedly on chunks of Parmigiana and a bowl of good olives, and the maître d’ threw in an overflowing bread basket and some candied nuts. We recommend the Soho location for prime people-watching, amply umbrella’d sidewalk seats, and the option of slipping into the new gelateria next door for dessert.