Alex Stupak Is Rethinking ‘American’ Food

More than a decade ago, Alex Stupak pivoted away from pastry to open what would become the first outpost in his Empellón empire, and in October, he’ll swerve again with Mischa (157 E. 53rd St., at Third Ave.), an updated take on the ye olde neighborhood restaurant like the Lexington Avenue hole in the wall Donohue’s—“My favorite restaurant of all time,” says Stupak. For the chef, opening an “American” restaurant is a chance to reinvent timeworn tavern tropes. What does that look like, practically? Inkdark hummus made from chana daal and black tahini to start, or a seven-vegetable salatim including turmeric-tinged trumpet mushrooms and sweet potatoes with coriander. And don’t forget the hot dog: Mischa’s is made of brisket and topped with kimchee. “At this point,” Stupak wonders, “why is sauerkraut still seen as more New York–y than kimchee? There’s no way it is.”