A Chophouse Comes to Brownstone Brooklyn

When it opens in Carroll Gardens later this month, please do not call Gus’s Chop

House (215 Union St., nr. Henry St.)a steakhouse. “A chophouse is different because it’s neighborhood-y,” says chef Chris McDade, who, along with partner James O’Brien, also runs the popular Popina nearby. “It’s not an expense-account place.” There will be meat, however: dry-aged beef, various cuts of pork and lamb, and slow-roasted whole chickens sauced with onion jus. Plate-size hash browns too, topped with trout roe. And a starter called “leeks à la wedge” that combines two icons into a singular new dish. Classic crème brûlée should appeal to the kids in the neighborhood, while freezer-chilled martinis should appeal to their parents.