Where to Slurp Shurpa at 1 A.M.

Plus dumplings and kebabs in Brooklyn’s Little Uzbekistan.

Alate-night scene has emerged in Midwood, scattered between Kensington’s Little Pakistan and Little Odessa in Brighton Beach. The hours are in part designed to accommodate the area’s many Uber drivers; it helps that much of Uzbekistan’s food—dumplings, rice, noodles, plenty of meat— is the kind of straightforward, hearty cooking that tastes great around midnight. At the monthsold Chayhana (488 Kings Hwy, nr. Mcdonald Ave.; instagram.com/chayhana_uzbek_restaurant), owner Kamol Raupov’s recipes come from his family, which has been in the food business for generations: bowls of chewy lagman noodles, platters of grilled beef and lamb served over fresh-cut French fries, crusty rounds of the flatbread obi non, an assortment of kebabs that customers can pick from a brightly lit display up front. Get the lamb ribs, which are sprinkled with whole cumin seeds before they hit the grill. 24-hour spot that opened last year. The shurpa— clear broth with a large cube or two of slow-cooked beef, plus potato, turnip, carrot, and a handful of chickpeas—is a bit like French pot-au-feu, while the manti are a thin-skinned, oversize version of the famous dumplings filled with lamb-andonion mince and dolloped with yogurt. The storefront was crowded with groups—all men, for the record—every time I stopped by. That wasn’t the case at Urgut Osh Markazi where my server told me that delivery orders make up the bulk of their late-night business. That’s surprising, since a $14 bowl of its warm, rib-sticking pilmeni soup seems perfectly suited to the people leaving the sports bars across the street.