THE SULTANATE OF SWING
The hidden treasures of exotic Oman
WHILE still undiscovered by most Americans, Oman is a favorite escape for global jetsetters. The country’s dramatic fjords, mesmerizing dunes, pristine beaches and glamorous resorts make it more alluring than ever. Here are a few of its hidden delights.
MUSCAT: ELEGANCE & ADVENTURE
Begin with a tour of the Sultan Qaboos Grand
Mosque, which welcomes visitors of all faiths during morning hours. Its gleaming white marble arches and golden dome house the world’s second largest carpet and chandelier. From there, it’s off to the Muttrah Souk. This quaint bazaar’s treasures include silver trinkets, spices, frankincense and kummas (traditional Omani prayer caps). Then seek oasis at The
Chedi ( ghmhotels.com; from $525). This swanky resort is polished in Arabic modernist style — with a dramatic tented lobby leading to a series of white bungalows, arched pavilions and reflecting pools. Travelers indulge in the enormous spa and nibble on bites from one of its six gourmet restaurants. For true decadence, check into one of the resort’s Club suites, with sunken black terrazzo tubs and access to the resort’s private lounge.
The next morning, thrill-seekers should book a guide for a hike-slash-swim through the magnificent Wadi Shab. Pack sturdy shoes and sunblock before tackling the boulders of this ancient riverbed and wading through its natural pools.
After all that exertion, rejuvenate with a visit to the Ritz-Carlton’s regal Al Bustan Palace ( ritzcarlton.com; from $480), the grand dame of Muscat hotels. Glide through its elegant, soaring lobby, then unwind in your sumptuously tiled private bath and enjoy a romantic dinner on the beach, complete with a freshcaught seafood, gauzy tent and tiki torches. In addition to its five pools, four restaurants and the longest private beach in the country, the hotel offers excursions, including dolphin watching shuttles to Al Alam Palace, where Oman’s Sultan Qaboos holds court.
AL HAJAR: MOUNTAIN ESCAPE
Next, it’s time to visit Oman’s grand Western Hajar mountains. Set course for Nizwa — one of Oman’s oldest cities and its former capital — an easy, two-hour drive from Muscat. On your way out of town, pop into one of the small cafes and pick up a delicious egg sandwich and karak (an incredibly addictively sweet twist on masala chai tea) to sustain you.
Mind your step in the castle-like Nizwa Fort to avoid its ingenious pitfalls and “murder holes,” crafted to stave off invaders. Nearby, the city’s souks — hawking everything from wooden chests to goats and camels — make for a lively stop. And pop by the Falaj Daris — part of Oman’s ingenious irrigation system and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From Nizwa, it’s a steep climb into the craggy Hajar mountains, to reach the spectacular new hotel and spa Alila Jabal Akhdar ( alilahotels.com; from $505). Opened this summer, it’s on the edge of a jaw-dropping gorge, 6,500 feet above sea level. The resort’s 78 rooms have magnificent mountain views and private balconies or terraces. An infinity pool laps at the cliff edge, while terrace-side dining at the resort’s Juniper Restaurant makes for perfect star gazing.
For more mountaineering, head to nearby Jebel Shams. The perilous climb leads you to breathtaking Wadi Nakhr, considered Oman’s Grand Canyon.
GETTING THERE
Etihad Airways ( etihad. com) offers daily flights from NYC to Muscat via a onehour flight from Abu Dhabi.