SUR THING!
With Highway 1 reopened after landslides, California’s coastal Big Sur is road trip-ready
F ROM the rocky coastline to sky-high redwoods, and every peak of the Santa Lucia mountain range in between, Big Sur hardly seems real, much less a part of the United States. But there it is, utterly idyllic — thanks to California’s spirit of conservation.
The Big Sur region covers about 76 miles of the famed California State Route 1 (aka “Highway 1”), in central California, stretching from Carmel River near Monterey to San Simeon.
Unfortunately, several years of West Coast drought followed by unusually rainy seasons in 2016 and 2017 have caused massive landslides, most recently in May of this year, when millions of tons of mud covered more than a quarter-mile span of SR 1 near an area called (perhaps cruelly) Mud Creek. Miraculously, houses and lives were spared, but it has cost Big Sur a reported $320,000 per day in sales revenue since the slides.
The fires currently raging across the northern Bay Area are another heartbreaking reminder of California’s susceptibility to natural disasters. On the bright side, though, Big Sur has managed to bounce back from its severe setbacks in a remarkable fashion.
Volunteers and workers from all over the region worked hard this year to reopen as much land as possible for their many visitors and residents by forging a bypass trail around one of the two major road closures along SR 1, at Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge. At half a mile long and 500 feet of elevation with views of the verdant Ventana Wilderness, the trail has become a destination unto itself.
On Friday, after nearly a year of an impassable Highway 1 and stifled tourism, the California Department of Transportation has reopened Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge, making it possible to access an additional 35 miles of Big Sur.
Meanwhile, the region is rebuilding the rest of SR 1, a 30-mile distance from the town of Gorda to San Simeon, so that the road is continuous once more. (The alternative is a 2 ½ -hour detour from Gorda to San Simeon.) Estimated completion is summer 2018.
Before you make your way south, though, be sure to swing up to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve near Carmel for a short (or long) walk through the “crown jewel” of the California State Parks system. This haven contains so much of what makes Big Sur spectacular — ocean vistas, clear blue lagoons, rocky shores, majestic wildlife and miles of trails.
Just about 6 miles down into Big Sur proper is Garrapata State Park and Beach, featuring swaths of wildflowers in the spring and early summer that give the gardens of Paris a run for their money. While the eastern section is still closed at this time — due to the devastating 2016 Soberanes fire — there’s still a chance to see breathtaking views of the Pacific in front of you, and the nearby Santa Lucia mountains behind.
While notoriously upscale resorts like the Post Ranch Inn and Ventana Big Sur provide stylish creature comforts, the more affordable Big Sur River Inn ($150; BigSurRiverInn.com) and Big Sur Lodge ($265; BigSurLodge.com) have lots of the charm. (And Wi-Fi that’s just spotty enough to untether kids from their iPads!)
Located just a few miles north of the newly reopened bridge and established in 1932, the River Inn was the area’s first hotel. With rustic cabin-style motel rooms, the Inn also has a full-service restaurant and bar with a large deck, a general store, a gas station, an ice cream truck, and even a pizza and burrito bar. Don’t forget to snag a seat in one of the several Adirondack chairs the hotel has placed directly in the crystalclear — but freezing! — mountain spring waters of the Big Sur River.
Just a few minutes’ drive away, Big Sur Lodge was built on the same site as a historic resort established by the Pfeiffers themselves (of the eponymous state park). The property boasts similar offerings, with cabin accommodations and a general store. Here and elsewhere, expect fresh, local ingredients from Monterey Bay (seafood) and nearby Salinas Valley (produce and fruit).
One of the most arduous hikes along this part of the coast leads up to the Point Sur Lighthouse. The lighthouse — which is on the National Register of Historic Places (and potentially haunted) — sits atop volcanic rock 361 feet above sea level and has remained in continuous operation since 1889. After a climb that feels virtually vertical, with passionate volunteer guides leading the way, fantastic views serve as ample reward ( PointSur.org).
Dinner at dusk while watching the sun set over a cliff is one great way to spend an evening, and Nepenthe Restaurant has a fittingly laid-back vibe. Its famous burger with Ambrosia sauce (a secret combination of tomato sauce, mayo and mild green salsa) is a must ( Nepenthe.com).
It’s not just the spectacular scenery that humbles visitors to Big Sur. The people — shop owners, hotel managers, trail guides, shuttle drivers and park rangers — truly add to the experience. There are tales of ping-pong with Henry Miller and ghosts inhabiting historic sites. Local Dana Carnazzo regales folks with tales of sailing all over the world in her youth — only to return home to run Big Sur Lodge because she just couldn’t stay away from one of the most beautiful places in the world. We can see what she means.