Last frontier
Celebrate Alaska Day in Sitka, where America claimed the state from Russia
A T the height of summer, thousands of cruise ship passengers descend every week onto the tiny town of Sitka, Alaska, for a few hours of sightseeing before heading to the next port of call. However, the gentle charms of this island town, on the southern strip of the 49th state that borders British Columbia, are best discovered over the course of a few days when the crowds have thinned. There’s no better time to do it than this fall, as the people of Sitka commemorate the town’s central role in American history exactly 150 years ago: the purchase of Alaska from the Russians on Oct. 18, 1867.
Alaska Airlines flies from Seattle daily (from $389 roundtrip; about four hours) on a commuter plane that stops either in Ketchikan or Juneau before reaching Sitka. The airport is located on Japonski Island and connected to Baranof Island, where most of the 9,000-per- son-strong population lives, by a small causeway. Those arriving will be welcomed by locals dressed in 1860s garb, the first taste of what a big deal Alaska Day — Oct. 18 — is to the people of Sitka.
But before you learn about the Russians, the American takeover and what came to be known as “Seward’s Folly,” it’s important to understand that for millennia this was — and is still today — the land of the indigenous Tlingit people who make up roughly one-quarter of the town’s population.
Make your first stop the Sitka National Historical Park ( NPS.gov/Sitk), which sits at the eastern end of Lincoln Street, a quick walk from the center of town along the picturesque harbor. Begin by hiking the loop trail lined with Tlingit and Haida totem poles carved by the local indigenous groups. The tradition of carving totems as memorials or to tell stories dates back centuries; the oldest totems here, such as the Raven/Shark Pole, were originally carved for the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition (aka the St. Louis World’s Fair). Be sure to stop at the area that saw the Battle of Sitka in 1804, an early conflict between the Russians and the Kiks. ádi, the local Tlingit group. Once back at the visitors’ center, take in an exhibition in which contemporary artists examine the impact of the purchase of Alaska from the native perspective.
On your way back to the center, stop at the Sheldon Jackson Museum ( Museums.Alaska.gov/ Sheldon_Jackson). It’s not only the oldest museum in Alaska, dating back to 1895, but it also houses one of the best collections of both Tlingit and other native artifacts from around the state.
A second day in Sitka can focus on the Russians. The Alaskan coast was first scoped by Russian traders in 1741, and permanent settlers came to Baranof Island in 1799. The Tlingit battled twice to keep the Russians at bay: first at the northern end of Baranof Island in 1802, where the natives were victorious, and then two years later at the spot now in the national park, where the Russians — backed by the armed frigate Neva — were able to gain a foothold despite Tlingit opposition.
The Russians established Sitka as the capital of Russian America, calling it New Archangel, and the town still has the biggest Russian presence in North America. Begin at the Russian Bishop’s House (built in 1843), a great example of Russian woodframe architecture. Through Oct. 21, tours are offered regularly, and include the bishop’s private residence on the second floor, furnished as it would have been in the heyday of Russian America. Stroll two blocks to St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, established in 1844 and still an active parish (and one of 94 Russian Orthodox churches still remaining in Alaska). Today, most churchgoers are Tlingit. Over the years, Sitka was home to six individuals sainted by the Russian Orthodox church, which is, per capita, the highest number anywhere in the country. Inside the church, beautiful icons and displays of 19thcentury liturgical items highlight the prominent role the church played.
Then, head to the Baranof Castle Hill State Historic Site. This was the exact spot where, on that fateful day in October of 1867, the official handover of the territory from the Russians to the Americans took place. If you’ve timed your trip to Sitka to Oct. 18, you can witness a reenactment of the transfer on Castle Hill that afternoon, immediately following the annual Alaska Day Parade ( AlaskaDayFestival.org)
Don’t forget, all this rich history is set among some of the most stunning beauty in Alaska. Bald eagles fly overhead and humpback whales are easily spotted from shore between spring and fall, peaking in June and July. To see eagles up close, visit the Alaska Raptor Center ($13 per person; AlaskaRaptor.org), where injured birds are rehabilitated. For marine life, consider the “Sea Otter & Whale Quest” at Allen Marine Tours ($130 per person; AllenMarineTours.com).
Hiking in the area abounds. The occasionally steep Gavan Hill Trail, at the end of Baranof Street, offers lovely scenery. But be aware: Autumn in Sitka means average high temperatures of just 47 degrees. The two biggest hotels in Sitka are the Totem Square Hotel & Marina (from $239; TotemSquareHotel.com) and the Westmark (from $245; WestmarkHotels.com). Happy Alaska Day!