TAKEIT SLO!
Dine, wine and hike in Slovenia, which is so much more than Melania Trump’s homeland
MELANIA Trump’s native Slovenia — a small European nation that declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 — has made headlines since her husband was elected. But as a recent visit reveals, there’s more to this picturesque part of the world than the first lady’s stateside celebrity status. (Funny enough, the Slovenians we met didn’t bring her up in conversation at all.) With its natural wonders, incredible array of food, fine wine and new hotels, Slovenia lures folks interested in exploring a corner of Europe not often visited.
It’s a country about the size of Massachusetts that’s easy to navigate via rental car. Here’s a primer for a first-time visit.
Ljubljana — Slovenia’s capital, whose population hovers around 275,000 — is one of Europe’s smallest capital cities, but it boasts a surprisingly bustling dining scene. On a Friday or Saturday, near the threebridge Tromostovje landmark, young locals flock to the club-like
AS Aperitivo ( ASAperitivo.com). While local DJs spin beats, cleancut twenty- and thirtysomethings nibble on pasta and meat plates while sipping Aperol spritzes.
The high volume can make conversation a challenge. For a low-key vibe, head to JB Restavracija, helmed by one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Janez Bratovž ( JB-Slo.com). There, small dishes — like an egg yolk fried with pork cracklings on the spot — pair nicely with chic mauve-toned interiors. In daylight, head to for an outside seat at Castletilna na Gradu NaGradu.si). Ljubljana Gos
in the castle’s courtyard ( Chef Ana Roš — named World’s Best Female Chef 2017 by the World’s 50 Best restaurant awards franchise — debuted this spot with her husband, sommelier Valter Kramar, and chef Svetozar Raspopović in 2009. Opt for the cheese-stuffed zucchini flowers with a glass of local Lambrusco while wiling away an afternoon.
Outside Ljubljana, the culinary offerings also prove impressive. Slovenia — whose neighbors include Italy to the west, Austria to the north and Hungary to the east — showcases a crossroads of these nations’ cuisines. At the Vogel ski resort in the Julian Alps, a mountain range in northern Slovenia, visitors can nosh on Hungarian goulash and Austrian apple strudel ( Closer to Italy, the Domačija influences Vogel.si).— shift. At Cejkotova
a restaurant in Goče, 20 miles from the Italian border — diners can order homemade prosciutto served with freshly made cheeses ( Domacija).Gredič Facebook.com/Cejkotova.Meanwhile, the hillside hotel in Dobrovo — which stands a mere 150 feet from Italy — serves a number of seafood-centric pasta dishes whose stars are fished fresh from the nearby Gulf of Trieste (from $117; Gredic.si).
For a sweet fix that’s native to Slovenia, grab a slice of potica — a sweet walnut roll. Locals say the best is baked at Dvor Jezeršek, a charming eatery about 3 miles from the Ljubljana airport ( Jezersek.si).
It’s time for a drink. Luckily, the country is also home to the
Goriška Brda wine region, a landscape of verdant hills, cypress trees and leafy vineyards that’s lovingly called “Slovenia’s Tuscany.”
Before sampling its wines, don’t miss a panoramic view of the area from a local landmark. Near the village of Šmartno stands the Gonjače Lookout
Tower. The unattractive structure with a circular staircase (which is a bit wobbly) looks to wide vistas of rolling hills and the red-roofed towns that dot them.
Scamper down, and it’s time to taste some local blends. It’s a zippy drive to Hiša Štekar, a 1986-opened winery, restaurant and inn ( Stekar.
si). Its wines include a rosé (inset below right), which visitors sip while munching on chicken dishes. For a more festive scene, Šmartno hosts St. Martin’s Feast on Nov. 11 — when local winemakers set up shop in abandoned homes to offer tastings of their own varietals ( Brda.si).
Slovenia also offers a feast of natural splendor. For fall foliage, head to the forested Lake Bohinj — an expanse nestled in the Julian Alps that’s the country’s largest lake.
Hikers can trek their way through a 7-mile loop around Bohinj underneath a canopy of changing leaves. Another nearby option for a hike: Slap Savi
ca, a breathtaking cliffside waterfall whose crystalline cascades collect in a beautiful pool. Another aquatic attraction, Lake
Bled isn’t a far drive away. Known for its postcard-perfect scenery — a large lake surrounded by mountains — Bled draws busloads of tourists. Hire a boat to head out to Bled Island, where visitors can walk inside the Catholic Church of the Assumption to make a wish while ringing its bell. For sheltered sightseeing, head an hour south to Posto
jna Cave, where paths wind through grand caverns ($30 entrance fee).
Waves of visitors have led to much-needed hotel development. Ljubljana’s newest is the Septemberopened InterContinental (from $235; IGH.com). This 165-room stay features a 20th-floor restaurant with mountain views. Last year also marked the reopening of the 80-room Hotel
Jama, near Postojna Cave, after a chic redesign (from $116; Postojnska-Jama.eu). GETTING THERE: Swissair and Austrian Airlines fly from New York to Slovenia via their European hubs. Turkish Airlines operates a cheaper route via Istanbul (from $789 roundtrip; TurkishAirlines.com). The author was a guest of Slovenia’s tourism board.