SWEET ESCAPE
Visit lush NICARAGUA for the ultimate break from city life
By HAHANA R. ALBERTS N EW Yorkers rarely stop to rest. Last year, I diagnosed myself with severe burnout. The cure: Nicaragua, the wilder little sister of its southern neighbor Costa Rica. I plotted out 10 days exploring the Central American country’s jungly landscape, peaceful waterways and scenic shores along the Pacific and Atlantic. Its pace was slow, its landscapes jaw-dropping, its locals warm and welcoming.
The nation of 6.5 million — slightly smaller than New York state — has cultural lures, like festivals tinged with native and Spanish traditions (left). There’s plenty to do without a ton of must-sees, making it ideal for some R&R. Here’s how to recharge there. Hidden courtyards
Most visitors pick Granada as their home base. And for good reason: It’s less than an hour from the capital of Managua, where the major airport is located, as well as lakes and volcanoes of interest. Its cobblestone streets are lined with pastel-colored facades that hide lush interior courtyards and intricate tile work. Prime spots to ogle the latter include the trendy Tribal Hotel (from $145;
Tribal-Hotel.com), owned by New Yorkers Yvan Cussigh and Jean-Marc Houmard. Its seven rooms book up fast, thanks to an inviting pool with a patterned bottom and funkily photogenic decor sourced from Nicaragua and surrounding countries.
Volcanic activities
Half an hour from Granada by car sits the Laguna de Apoyo, a crater lake warmed by volcanic steam vents. Book one of Pacaya’s 26 balconied rooms and overlook this oasis (from $150; Pacaya Lodge.
com). Take a free shuttle down to the water’s edge for the day ($6; The Laguna Beach Club. com). Enjoy smoothies and tacos in deck chairs, plus use of kayaks and floating docks.
Jump in the lake
Granada is also the jumpingoff point for a chain of some 350 small islands in the northwest corner of massive Lake Nicaragua. Las Isletas, as they’re called, are home to hideaways only accessible by boat. The most posh is Jicaro, with nine treehouse-style casitas made out of wood salvaged from 2007’s Hurricane Felix (from $440; JicaroLodge.com). Jicaro’s all-natural philosophy extends from its stellar menu to its seawater pool, making for an idyll with a conscience. Paddleboarding around the isletas is a serene experience interrupted only by cheeky monkeys and elegant birds.
Surf’s up
The Pacific Ocean’s whitecaps crash along Nicaragua’s western coast, where two impressive resorts for deeppocketed beach bums sprawl. A 2013 debut, Mukul started as a collective of mansions for the country’s richest, thanks to billionaire rum baron Carlos Pellas Chamorro. Now run by Auberge Resorts, the hotel spans 1,600 acres, with villas of varying sizes, a clubhouse with a pool and a restaurant, a golf course and a surf school whose instructors can coach beginners to stand for a few glorious seconds ($550; Mukul. Auberge Resorts.
com). Half an hour north is Rancho Santana, a resort and residential community that spans five beaches, boasts a gallery with local art and has a delightful taqueria (from $285; RanchoSantana.com).
Islands in the sun
Hop a short flight (about $80 each way on local carrier La Costeña) over to Nicaragua’s Atlantic side, where, about 40 miles into the Caribbean Sea, you’ll find the Corn Islands. An endearingly sleepy backpacker enclave, Little Corn is remote yet friendly; everyone ends up at the same bar, Cafe Tranquilo, each night. The most upscale hotel (modestly priced by New York standards) is Yemaya (from $180; Yemaya.LittleCorn.com). Its 16 cabanas are a scenic 20-minute walk from the village. A stylish couple from LA said they pay Yemaya — and Little Corn — a visit every year. We can see why.