Fashion coup
Costume designer dishes on Claire Underwood’s polished rise to power
B EWARE Claire’s flair.
During her six seasons on “House of Cards,” Claire Underwood’s ruthless ambition manifests not just in her political power plays, but through intentional shifts in the character’s wardrobe, says costume designer Kemal Harris. “She does this visual manipulation where she has this quiet sensuality about her,” Harris says of Claire, played by Golden Globe winner Robin Wright. “She uses that as a tool to get the best and worst out of people.”
In the show’s final season, released Friday on Netflix, fans get to see Claire in full Madam President mode, turned out in sharp dress suits befitting the most powerful person in the world. The buttoned-up, stretchy wool-crepe attire often embraces an appropriate “presi- dential blue,” Harris says, conveying the seriousness of a military commander. That marks a stark contrast to Claire’s early days as a striving lady nurturing the ambitions of husband Francis Underwood (Kevin Spacey).
“In Seasons 1 and 2, Francis was the political social climber; Claire was helping him behind the scenes,” says Harris, who joined the show in Season 3. At the time, Claire wore understated looks from designers such as Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. “She wasn’t too flashy,” Harris says.
Things took a turn in Season 3, when Claire began her official duties as first lady. Harris looked to screen legends such as Katharine Hepburn and Lauren Bacall for inspiration, allowing Claire to break from her usual muted palette with pieces in jade green and burgundy. “For once in her life, Claire actually got to be a little bit fabulous and enjoy her fashion,” Harris says.
The character’s style story deepened in Season 4, when Claire returned to her family’s Texas ranch to run for Congress (and lock horns with her mother). “We actually see her break down and cry. Like, whoa — Claire has feelings!” Harris says. The mood comes through in Claire’s tweed fabrics and leather riding boots — touches “reminiscent of her childhood.”
When campaigning for vice president as her husband’s running mate, Claire was back in business for Season 5. Harris embellished Claire’s ensembles with “military details” such as large gold buttons — also a nod to Claire’s desire to be commander in chief herself. “Claire was the epitome of that phrase, ‘Dress for the job you want,’ ” Harris says. (Spacey was fired from the show before Season 6 began filming, following allegations of sexual impropriety. His character was killed off-camera.)
In the final season, Claire is in the Oval Office, rocking a wardrobe that’s roughly 80 percent custommade, Harris says. The precise tailoring isn’t haute-y, though; the vibe is “utilitarian,” with higher necklines and longer sleeves. But not everything has changed. “We continued with Claire’s well-tailored, immaculate style,” Harris says, “and the wicked black patent Christian Louboutin heels Claire is known for.”