RULE THE WAVES
Honeymoon in an overwater villa on a private Panamanian island
THERE’S something unmistakably romantic about an overwater bungalow. Maybe it’s that splendid isolation that comes from being surrounded on all sides by water, with wraparound views of the sea, all without the constant bobbing of a boat.
Thus far, honeymooners looking for this watery escape have generally had to trek far and wide to find it, to the Maldives, or South Pacific islands. (The only US overwater lodgings are at the Polynesian Village Resort in Walt Disney World.) But for an exclusive, luxurious bungalow only half a day away, newlyweds can now head to Nayara Bocas Del Toro in Panama — a tropical, adults-only resort on its own island in an archipelago in the Caribbean Sea.
The dream is that of Dan Behm, a 64-yearold entrepreneur whose retirement project was to buy a hotel in Costa Rica. After successfully launching one in 2015, he turned to Panama to set up these elusive lodgings.
“Location was everything. It had to be out of the hurricane zone,” he said. Tides were also key in choosing Bocas Del Toros, a region made up of nine main islands and a strip of mainland off the east coast of Panama.
Consequently, a small island purchased in 2017 proved perfect. Everything in the region is accessible only by boat, with natural uninhabited islands that boast pristine beaches, perfect for a private picnic. Nayara Bocas Del Toro promptly opened in 2021, positioning itself as a luxury, allinclusive eco retreat, all based on Balinese design with a Caribbean twist.
After being met at the rustic Bocas Town airport, you’ll be taken by boat to the resort, being greeted at a grand palapa called the Elephant House, a century-old wood structure that was shipped over from Bali and rebuilt at the main dock.
The Elephant House also serves as the resort’s main dining room. Food here is international but Caribbean influenced, with fresh organic fare and local seafood.
The one-bedroom Balinese style bungalows are perfectly set up for a romantic getaway, with soaring thatched roofs and cool tile, and an expansive deck with access to the water for swimming, kayaking and snorkeling. Landlubbers can also watch the undersea life from a viewing port within the living room floor. (Switch on the blue light at night to attract beautiful and hypnotic moon jellyfish.)
Some also boast private plunge pools — all are being retrofitted to include this amenity as of next year — although a larger pool by the casual Coral Reef al fresco restaurant is also a great place to chill with a signature Coco Loco cocktail served in a coconut.
If your aspirations are less waterbound, you can opt to go Swiss Family Robinson — five new elevated treehouses have been added to the resort. They’re the epitome of open-air living, with wooden structures that blend into the flora. Watch hummingbirds and butterflies float by as you relax in an outdoor soaking tub, before enjoying drinks on a wraparound balcony.
One slight problem existed for Behm, however — the lack of a beach. Surrounded by protected mangroves, creating one wasn’t possible as the resort prides itself on being 100% off-grid. So the team got creative, coming up with an elevated sandbar, with direct entry into the water, complete with a beach bar and tiki torches for sunset viewing. It’s also the perfect spot for dining à deux.
If you want to explore further afield, a private boat and captain is at your disposal, whether you want to dive, surf, or take a sunset cruise (with Champagne, naturally).
Treehouses from $1,270; bungalows from $1,500; NayaraBocasDelToro.com. Air Panam flies from Panama City (PAC) to Bocas, from $118 round trip. Fly Copa Airlines to Panama City (PTY), from $280 round trip from JFK.