Vibrant lemon balances out savoriness of one-pot pasta

Tomatoes may get more attention, but throughout Italy, lemon also often finds its way into pasta.

Along the Amalfi coast, ringshaped calamarata pasta is paired with clams, parsley, garlic and fried strips of a sweet local lemon. In Sicily, broken pasta comes studded with toasted pistachios, parmesan, and a lemon’s juice and zest. And in Rome, the juice is whisked with olive oil, cream and parmesan for al dente tagliatelle.

The sour and subtly sweet citrus balances the noodle’s starch and the sauce’s heft, functioning much like the dose of freshly ground black pepper that offsets pecorino Romano in cacio e pepe. And it serves much the same role as tomato often does, providing acidity that cuts through cheese.

In fact, the pairing of lemons and pasta is arguably more traditional than red sauce itself, as the fruit arrived in Italy at least 1,500 years before tomatoes.

Lemon features prominently in this one-pan pasta recipe from our book “CookISH.” Bright, bracing lemon zest and juice perk up the savoriness of garlic, pancetta and capers, while a dusting of golden crisp breadcrumbs adds texture.

Lemon-Caper Spaghetti with Pancetta and Toasted Breadcrumbs

½ cup panko breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt

4 ounces pancetta, chopped

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup drained capers, chopped

Ground black pepper

1 pound spaghetti Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and/ or finely grated pecorino Romano cheese, optional

In a large pot, cook the panko and oil, stirring, until golden brown. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in a pinch of salt.

In the same pot, cook the pancetta, stirring, until crisp. Add the garlic and most of the capers; cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add 4 cups water and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then boil. Stir in the pasta, cover and cook, stirring, until al dente. Off heat, stir in the remaining capers and lemon zest and juice; season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Toss with parsley and/or cheese, if using.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.