Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette
New cookbook explores ‘The Miracle of Salt’
This recipe from cookbook author Naomi Duguid could be served as a side dish or a weeknight main course.
In her cookbook “The Miracle of Salt,” Duguid says this is “a style of dish that dates back to a more frugal time in Europe, when a small amount of meat was used to give depth of flavor and succulence to whatever vegetables were on hand.” We think it also makes a good side.
If you want your potatoes to retain their shape when they are tossed with the warm brussels sprouts and crisp salt pork, allow them to rest at least 5 minutes before peeling.
Buy the largest sprouts you can find, so they will retain some crispness after cooking.
In place of the brussels sprouts, you could substitute sliced cabbage or coarsely chopped bok choy. Rather than salt pork, consider pancetta or thick-cut bacon. Duguid recommends adding a tablespoon of butter to the skillet before sauteing the sprouts. This makes the dish a touch richer but isn’t essential because of the rendered fat from the salt pork.
Leftovers will keep refrigerated for up to 4 days.
Brussels Sprouts and Potatoes with Salt Pork
1 ½ pounds new/small red potatoes, scrubbed
2 teaspoons fine salt, plus more as needed
6 ounces salt pork OR pancetta OR thick-cut bacon, diced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)
1 medium shallot, minced
¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
12 ounces large brussels sprouts, trimmed and thinly sliced lengthwise through the stem
¼ cup white wine
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
In a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the potatoes and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, add the salt and cook until just tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, recover and set aside in the pot to firm up.
Meanwhile, place a cast-iron or another heavy, lidded skillet over medium-low heat, add a few of the fattier pieces of meat and cook briefly until the fat has rendered. Add the remaining meat, increase the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until crispy and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a plate and set aside, leaving the fat in the skillet.
Increase the heat to medium, add the butter, if using, and toss in the shallot, fennel seeds and cloves. Cook, stirring, until the shallot is translucent, about 3 minutes; then toss in the brussels sprouts. Cook, turning them frequently, until starting to soften, about 5 minutes.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them, cut into bite-size pieces and transfer to a wide, shallow serving bowl.
Increase the heat to medium-high, add ¼ cup water, cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the sprouts are barely tender, about 4 minutes. Add the wine, increase the heat to high and boil hard for 1 minute. Decrease the heat to low, add the reserved pork and cook until the flavors meld, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste, and season with more salt and/or black pepper if you wish.
Transfer the contents of the pan to the serving bowl and toss until the potatoes are wellcoated with fat. Serve hot.
Makes 3 main dish servings.
Recipe adapted from “The Miracle of Salt” by Naomi Duguid (Artisan, 2022)