Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette
Harbinger of SPRING
Asparagus season brings myriad dishes to savor
German has a word for it: Spargelzeit.
And for many of us it’s the most wonderful time of the year.
Asparagus season — and it’s happening now.
This early harbinger of spring — along with strawberries, lettuces and other greens, cilantro and the cruciferous cousins (broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, kale, etc.) — is popping up in gardens and at markets.
Steamed, grilled, baked, roasted, boiled, broiled or even served raw, topped with a simple squeeze of lemon juice or a rich hollandaise sauce, asparagus lends itself to a wide variety of preparations.
Some of its favorite partners include lemon, black pepper, parsley, dill, parmesan cheese, butter and eggs. The following recipes showcase just how well the flavors pair.
Selection, storage and preparation tips:
Look for spears with dry, “velvety” looking flesh with tightly closed tops.
The best way to store asparagus is like flowers in a vase, upright in a glass or jar, with an inch or so of water in the bottom. To store for more than a day, cover the whole shebang loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 3 or 4 days.
On average, a grocery-store bunch or bundle of asparagus weighs a little over a pound. One pound of asparagus, cut into 1- to 2-inch lengths, measures about 3 cups.
Whether to use thick or thin spears is a matter of personal preference. Some people prefer the robust flavor and texture of fat spears, while others like the delicate flavor of pencil thin stalks. Spear circumference is an indicator of plant age. Younger plants produce thinner spears, while older plants produce thicker ones. Select asparagus spear thickness based on the cooking method. Use thinner stalks for quick cooking methods and thicker stalks for longer cooking methods.
For the best texture, flavor and appearance, avoid overcooking asparagus. Even perfectly cooked asparagus will turn murky dark green when exposed to acid. So if you’re dressing asparagus with lemon juice, vinegar or another acidic ingredient, serve it immediately. If you simply must dress it in advance, consider using lemon zest rather than juice. The zest has all of the flavor, but not the acidity.
The bottom couple of inches of a spear are generally tough and woody. The woody part is usually paler and slightly beige compared to the rest of the stalk. Either cut this part off or (our preferred method) snap it. Gently hold the asparagus spear, one end in each hand, and bend it until it breaks. This is the natural tough meets tender spot. No additional trimming is necessary when you use this method.
Some cooks prefer to peel the asparagus, which can be done using a paring knife or a specialty vegetable peeler with a curved blade. Very thick spears may benefit from both snapping and peeling.
Don’t toss the ends or the peels. They can be used to make asparagus broth for soups or any recipe that calls for vegetable broth.
Asparagus Broth: For each cup of asparagus ends, combine 2 cups water and ¼ of an onion in a saucepan or pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Strain. Discard solids. Use immediately or freeze for up to 6 months.
THE RECIPES Creamy Asparagus Soup
½ pound asparagus spears, tough ends trimmed or peeled Butter
1 heaping cup thinly sliced leeks (about ¼ pound)
Salt and ground black pepper
¾ cup broth (vegetable, chicken or asparagus), plus more as needed
2 tablespoons frozen green peas
Freshly grated parmesan
1 tablespoon heavy cream
Lemon juice
Cut tips off the asparagus and set them aside. Cut the spears into ½ inch pieces.
In a saucepan, melt a small pat of butter over mediumhigh heat. Add the asparagus tips and a pinch of salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until just tender, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Add another slightly larger pat of butter to the now-empty pan, along with the chopped spears and leeks. Season with a pinch or two of salt and pepper and cook, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Add ¾ cup broth; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in peas and 2 teaspoons parmesan. Puree mixture in a blender until smooth. Wipe the saucepan clean. Return the pureed asparagus mixture to the pan. Stir in cream and reserved asparagus tips and cook 2 minutes or until heated through. If desired, add more broth to create desired consistency. Add a squeeze of lemon juice just before serving.
Makes 2 small servings. Recipe adapted from “The Complete Cooking for Two Cookbook” 10th Anniversary Edition from America’s Test Kitchen.
To turn this side into a main course, top each portion with a fried egg.
Asparagus Cacio e Pepe
1 ½ pounds asparagus (see note)
2 tablespoons butter, melted
Salt and ground black pepper
3 tablespoons freshly grated romano cheese
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese
½ lemon, for serving
Flaky salt, for serving
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Place the asparagus in a 10-by13 (or similarly sized) baking dish. Add the butter, a generous pinch or two of salt and ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper; toss to coat. Arrange the spears decoratively (with the tips all pointing the same direction) in the dish. Roast 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the cheeses and continue roasting until the cheeses melt and the asparagus is crisp-tender, about 5 minutes more. Squeeze with lemon juice and sprinkle with flaky salt.
Serve hot.
Makes about 4 servings. Note: If the asparagus spears are very thick or if you prefer very tender spears, blanch them in salted boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes before coating with butter, salt and pepper.
Recipe adapted from “Go-To Dinners” by Ina Garten.
Here, fish and asparagus cook together on a single sheet pan making clean up a breeze. A zippy parsley-shallot-lemon sauce ties everything together.
Roasted Cod With Parsley-Shallot Sauce and Asparagus
1 ½ cups lightly packed fresh parsley leaves and tender stems (from 1 bunch)
1 small shallot, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, more or less to taste
1 lemon, halved, divided use
Salt and ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed (medium-thick spears are ideal)
4 (6-ounce) filets cod, thoroughly patted dry
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 425 degrees.
In a food processor or mini-blender, combine the parsley, shallot, mustard, the juice from one lemon half and a generous pinch of salt and pepper; and pulse until finely chopped. Add 3 tablespoons of the oil (while the processor is running, if possible) and continue to process, stopping to scrape down the sides if needed, until the mixture is smooth and creamy. If necessary, add about a tablespoon of water to loosen the mixture. You should see tiny flecks of parsley in the emulsified sauce. Taste and add more lemon juice, salt or pepper. Transfer the sauce to a jar or bowl until ready to serve.
Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil in the center of a large, rimmed baking sheet, add the asparagus and season with a pinch or two of salt, toss to coat, then push the asparagus to one side of the baking sheet. Arrange the fish onto the empty side and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Roast for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork and the asparagus stems are tender and the tops are lightly crisped. If your asparagus is on the thin side, it will likely be done before the fish; remove it to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm while the fish finishes cooking. (Our pencil- to crayon-thick spears were crisp-tender after about 9 minutes.)
Divide the fish and asparagus among plates. Top the fish with the parsley sauce and serve.
Makes 4 servings.
Recipe adapted from Ellie Krieger via The Washington Post.
This recipe requires a bit more work — shuffling items in and out of the skillet as they cook — to keep it one pan, but the extra work pays off in big flavor.
Honey-Citrus Chicken With Asparagus and Peppers
2 boneless skinless chicken breasts
¼ cup all-purpose flour
Salt and ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt-free lemon-pepper seasoning
Olive oil
3 to 4 tablespoons butter, divided use
½ bunch asparagus, trimmed
1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-by-2-inch pieces
2 lemons OR oranges, 1 sliced and 1 juiced, divided use
1 to 2 tablespoons honey
Parsley for topping (optional)
Cut or pound each chicken breast to an even ¾-inch thickness.
In a shallow dish, combine the flour, about ½ teaspoon salt, a generous grind of black pepper and about ½ teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning. Lightly dredge each piece of chicken in flour mixture, shaking off excess.
Heat enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of a large skillet over medium high heat; add the chicken and cook for about 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and swirl to melt. Add the asparagus and bell pepper. Saute until asparagus are bright green and crisptender and bell pepper is tender. Remove the asparagus and pepper to the plate with the chicken. Add a little more butter to the pan, letting it melt and foam, and then lay the lemon or orange slices flat on the bottom of the pan and cook for a few minutes on each side without stirring so that they brown slightly. Push the lemon or orange slices to one side of the pan and add the juice, scraping up any browned bits and then add the honey and remaining butter, stirring until both are melted. Return the chicken and asparagus to the skillet, turning to coat in the sauce. Sprinkle with parsley.
Serve right away.
Makes 2 servings.