Old House Journal

a quick rehab

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1. BLASTING AWAY

Ship lights are often covered in thick marine paint encrusted with salt and debris. Big Ship Salvage prefers soda blasting (20 psi) for stripping: sodium bicarbonat­e shot with compressed air to remove paint, rust, salt, and mold. It’s much less damaging than sandblasti­ng (120 psi).

2. POLISHING UP

Once down to the brass or copper base, the lights are polished with 3M Polishing Compound (Brasso is good for smaller lights). Try a buffing wheel with an angle grinder and wool polishing pad. Car polishes such as Turtle Wax also make old metal sparkle. Dampen the pad before rubbing it in compound, and keep it moist so it doesn’t cause friction burn during applicatio­n. Carefully buff to the desired polish. Bronze or brass wool pads can be used for a matte finish. Avoid steel wool as it will mark up the metal. Protect the finish with carnauba wax or seal it with a clear semi-gloss or gloss lacquer.

If you find an old lamp unpainted and in good condition, Skipjack’s Joe Elder says to preserve patina by soaking the lamp in a solution of 1 gal. white vinegar with 3 gal. water for 30 minutes. Finish with a clear car or furniture wax (like Briwax).

3. REWIRING & HANGING

You must rewire every lamp. Trick of the trade: Twist or electrical-tape the ends of new wire to old; as you pull the old wire the new cord is drawn into the fixture. A U.L.-approved porcelain socket is set in the fixture with screws or a stud in the base. Wall sconces may be directwire­d to a wall switch or a pull-chain and thumb switch.

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