REUSING A VINTAGE DOOR
A DIYer offers first-person hints on using an epoxy filler.
A s part of the restoration of the front vestibule on our 1880s townhouse, Wendy and I adapted a salvaged maple exterior door for the new entry. When we found the door, the joints were loose and the peeling paint needed sanding and stripping, but it was about the right size for the opening and clearly was from the same era as the house in its style and construction.
After laboriously making the initial repairs, I was ready to patch several nicks and holes too large to address with wood filler. Missing wood in the door frame from old hinge locations needed patching, too. I turned to my favorite wood filler, a two-part epoxy made by Abatron called WoodEpox. (I’ve been using it for years, ever since I saw an advertisement for it in Old-House Journal in 2003.)
A kit comes with two same-size tubs (Part A and Part B). With WoodEpox, one part is a dark tan color and the other is bright white. One of the lids is marked with a red dot so you can easily identify which tub is which without opening the container.
Applying and working with WoodEpox is easy and straightforward. The work time is at most 20 minutes— long enough not to rush, but short enough that everything should be set up and ready to go before you start. Clean the area you plan to fill, removing any dirt or grease, and allow to dry. Wearing latex gloves (epoxy can be disastrously sticky), open both containers. Using only your left or right hand, pull out a ball of material. Using the opposite hand, pull out an equal sized lump from the other container. (Make sure you don’t put the glove used in the first container into the second one, or you could ruin the remainder.) Mash the two lumps together, then knead them to fully combine them. The two distinct colors of A and B will slowly turn to a consistent light tan together.
Once the epoxy is thoroughly blended, apply it to the damaged area. I make sure I add a little extra, because it is better to overfill the void than to under-fill it. (You can always remove excess material after it cures.) Work the epoxy in with your fingers and get it roughly to the desired shape.
Allow a 24- to 48-hour cure time, depending on the application and humidity levels. Don’t try to sand the repair too soon or it will gum up your sanding discs or pull away from the filled area. Once cured, the epoxy can be sanded, planed, cut, carved, drilled, nailed, and painted just like wood.