Orlando Sentinel (Sunday)

Muzzarella’s N.Y.-style pizza doesn’t skimp on flavor

- Lauren Delgado OS Foodie

Muzzarella Pizza and Italian Kitchen adds the option of a neighborho­od pizza joint to the area east of Lake Underhill. While a few of the non-pizza dishes need a little finessing, Muzzarella’s New York-style pies impressed with their tasty crust.

What I would try a second time Muzzarella doesn’t skimp on flavor. Sausage, bacon, pepperoni and meatballs covered the 14-inch Assisi pie ($18.75). It’s easy to imagine enjoying most of Muzzarella’s pies, thanks to the chewy-crisp crust and slightly sweet tomato sauce.

What I didn’t like

My chicken and shrimp bravo ($15.99) was drowning in a sauce that was light on pesto and heavy on the cream. I was able to fish out a twirl or two of angel-hair pasta, chunks of chicken cutlet, and vegetables — but the rather bland sauce didn’t do any of the ingredient­s any favors.

What I would put on Instagram

That gorgeous pizza will be appearing on @Orlando.Foodie sometime soon.

Other eats

Four garlic knots paired with marinara sauce are compliment­ary at Muzzarella. If you need more, you can order six for $3. Each spongy knot glistened with a brush of garlic butter. It gave a

nice flavor, but I missed the minced garlic I’ve come to expect.

We also sprung for the fried calamari ($10.99), which we opted to be doused in a sweet chili sauce. The breading around the chewy squid remained crunchy despite its piquant coating.

Muzzarella’s tiramisu ($5.99) wasn’t overly rich or coffee-heavy as I’ve come to expect from this classic. Neverthele­ss, I

How I was treated

Our server was friendly enough, but failed to check on us or deliver our food at a regular clip. I appreciate­d her menu recommenda­tions, however.

My next visit

More Muzzarella pizza is definitely in my future — along with a taste of their wings.

For bar-hoppers

Macro brews such as Stella Artois, Bud Light, and Blue Moon are poured from Muzzarella’s taps, along with some bottle options. A small wine list is also available.

For those with special diets

Gluten-free pizza is an option at Muzzarella.

I didn’t spot vegan cheese on the menu, but I did find some meat-free options in the pasta, salad and appetizer sections.

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