Orlando Sentinel (Sunday)

Taste of Chengdu serves bold Sichuan flavors

- Lauren Delgado OS Foodie

The teeny peppers that indicate hot and spicy dishes are plentiful on Taste of Chengdu’s menu for a reason. This restaurant in west Orlando specialize­s in cuisine from the Sichuan province of China. I’d characteri­ze Sichuan fare as often spicy, but always with pungent and bold flavor.

What I would try a second time

Popping bites of Taste of Chengdu’s lazji, or Sichuan style spicy chicken, made my evening. Woven into the pile of diced juicy chicken were pieces of garlic and chili peppers along with peppercorn­s, a signature of Sichuan cuisine. The combinatio­n made each bite just a little bit different. The peppercorn­s created a buzzy sort of spice — a bit numbing — but not to the point that I couldn’t taste the fattiness of the chicken with those other bold flavors.

What I didn’t like

Service was spotty during our meals, with our servers disappeari­ng for periods of time. Expect dishes to also arrive as they’re completed — not at any set pace. What I would put on Instagram

The lazji I mentioned above was a colorful dish, but I also liked the slick pork dumplings sprinkled with sesame seeds ($5.95). The half-moons floated in garlicky chili oil for our hot appetizer. The sweet pork inside the dumplings offered a nice contrast to the piquant sauce.

Other eats

Our meal began with a

spicy duo of dishes at different temperatur­es — the dumplings mentioned earlier and a cold starter of tongue and tripe in a chili sauce ($10.95). The somewhat chewy slivers were coated in the sauce. There’s something addicting about cold spicy food — it hits the palate in a sharp way.

The sautéed jumbo shrimp ($16.99) turned out to be a heartier entree than I imagined. Cauliflowe­r florets, chunks of bell peppers, chili peppers. onions, and zucchini were wrapped in a smoky sauce — with more of those peppercorn­s hidden in the vegetables.

On a later visit, we snagged a vegetable dish as an extra side. The forktender eggplant ($11.95) was bathed in a spicy garlic sauce for a nice sweet, salty heat.

How I was treated

Please see what I didn’t like.

My next visit

The boiled sliced fish, or shui zhu yu ($17.99) didn’t make it onto my table this time around, but I would love to try this Sichuan classic.

For bar-hoppers

A handful of macro brews can be paired with your meal. Teas, smoothies and milkshakes are alcoholfre­e Where: 2030 W. Colonial Drive in Orlando

When: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Cost: $7.95-$29.95

Beverages: Beer, tea, smoothies, milkshakes

Attire: Casual Extras: Lunch specials Noise level: Moderate Wheelchair access: Good

Credit: Visa, American Express, Mastercard and Discover

Call: 407-839-1983

Online: Facebook.com/ tasteofche­ngdu options.

For those with special diets

A number of vegetable and tofu-based dishes are on Taste of Chengdu’s menu. I tried a classic Sichuan dish, mapo tofu ($11.95), on a return visit. A pile of silky tofu was bathed in a bracing, pungent chili oil sauce. It can be ordered with or without the ground pork.

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