Orlando Sentinel (Sunday)

Menagerie offers a collection of creative, diverse fare

- Lauren Delgado OS Foodie

Menagerie Eatery & Bar is exactly as the name suggests. No, not an animal display (although there’s some wild animal art on the walls). The other definition: a diverse collection of things. Diners can eat everything from deviled eggs to a lobster and pasta dish at this South Eola neighborho­od restaurant in Orlando. What I would try a second time

Leave it to a restaurant to take a healthy ingredient and turn it into a rich dish. The curry tempura cauliflowe­r ($7) douses the florets in tempura batter and fries them to a crisp. The vegetable is well seasoned, and an accompanyi­ng piquant sauce makes it especially addictive.

What I didn’t like

It’s not that the Taiwanese Night Market ($8) dish was illcooked — the combinatio­n of fried chicken pieces, crisp basil and a garlicky sauce was just the least interestin­g bite of my two visits.

What I would put on Instagram

Menagerie pays particular care with its cocktails — and the presentati­on of those drinks. The refreshing Tea Party drink comes in a teacup, the Tight Rope cocktail itself is an eye-catching vibrant pink hue, and the old fashioneds are literally smoking.

Other eats

Menagerie’s wings ($9) were bathed in a blackberry-habanero sauce that transforme­d them into a lovely shade of magenta. Texture-wise, I would’ve like them with a bit more crunch, but I enjoyed the sweet-spicy flavor.

All of the crispness was saved for the squash and bacon fritters ($9). The orbs broke open to a spongy, savory batter made of acorn and butternut squash,

diced jalapeno, bacon and white cheddar.

Breaking away from Menagerie’s appealing appetizer selection, I tried one of the full-sized entrees, the Miso Coddy ($25). Thanks to a marinade of miso, the flaky cod had a slightly salty, earthy flavor that was balanced nicely with the accompanyi­ng sautéed spinach and cauliflowe­r.

We also tried the kombucha chicken sandwich ($14). A kombucha barbecue-glazed chicken breast, manchego cheese and habanero-cabbage slaw were crammed between a brioche bun.

How I was treated

Service has been friendly and conscienti­ous at each visit to Menagerie.

For those with special diets

Less than a handful of dishes are meat-free.

For bar-hoppers

Menagerie lets you get a little wild with its generous happy hour menu. Enjoy $7 signature cocktails and wines by the glass, $5 draft beer and $6 select small plates (which were the

Menagerie Eatery & Bar

Where: 101 S. Eola Drive in Orlando

When: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday and 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday

Cost: $13-$28

Beverages: Cocktails, wine, beer

Wine by the glass: Yes

wings, cauliflowe­r, Night Market and fritters mentioned earlier in this story).

My next visit

An appetizer spread of those crisp deviled eggs, pork belly skewers and Attire: Casual Extras: Happy hour, brunch Noise level: Low Wheelchair access: Good

Credit: Visa, American Express, Mastercard and Discover

Call: 407-601-5219

Online: MenagerieO­rlando.com

more curry tempura cauliflowe­r is in my future.

 ?? LAUREN DELGADO/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? Menagerie Eatery & Bar's squash and bacon fritters are savory orbs of doughy goodness.
LAUREN DELGADO/ORLANDO SENTINEL Menagerie Eatery & Bar's squash and bacon fritters are savory orbs of doughy goodness.
 ??  ??
 ?? LAUREN DELGADO/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? Menagerie’s curry tempura cauliflowe­r transforms the vegetable into a crisp, well-seasoned appetizer.
LAUREN DELGADO/ORLANDO SENTINEL Menagerie’s curry tempura cauliflowe­r transforms the vegetable into a crisp, well-seasoned appetizer.

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