Orlando Sentinel (Sunday)

The hidden gems of Seoul

Serpentine back streets lead to some of SKorea’s coziest spots

- By Farah Fleurima 95-15 Sinheung-ro, first floor

Seoul gleams with glass towers and brims with centuries-old architectu­re, but beyond the bright lights, it has a hidden intimate side, if you know where to look. Miles of winding back streets can lead you to a tucked-away cafe, a new restaurant or an entire enclave ripe for exploring. All you have to do is take the first step.

Locals flock to two under-the-radar neighborho­ods in particular for their insider cachet: the downtown industrial hub Euljiro, which is dotted with backalley bars and eateries, and Sinheung Market, an old street mall that’s getting a well-deserved makeover. (Both enclaves are within a few miles of the site of last Halloween’s crowd crush in Itaewon, but neither typically draws the large numbers of revelers for which Itaewon is known.)

In these two areas, getting off the main roads to explore will reward visitors with cocktail bars, restaurant­s and other nightspots whose outsize personalit­ies defy their cozy confines.

Euljiro

Tread carelessly in this area just off the business district in central Seoul, and you’re bound to walk right into one of dozens of grizzled motorcycli­sts transporti­ng stacks of fresh newsprint or machine cogs through the narrow streets.

But turn down the right alley and you could find a candlelit wine lounge with a veranda great for stargazing. That magic has earned this enclave the nickname Hipjiro, where tuckedaway watering holes and casually chic eateries entice native Koreans and foreigners in equal measure.

The trickier it is to locate a destinatio­n, the more stylish you can bet it is. But no matter where you go, the dress code is usually low-key — one of the best parts of lounge life in Seoul.

Vinyl vibes and disco shine:

Marked by only a sandwich board out front with a red beacon behind it, the music-forward lounge the Edge is easy to walk past, but it’s well worth the careful climb up steep metal stairs reminiscen­t of a New York City fire escape. The Edge is part vinyl shop, part bar serving coffee by day and beer and cocktails by night, often with a DJ keeping the beat. The vibe is less see-and-be-seen than it is watch-and-chillwith-friends. Sit among the boxes of records in the back or at the bar to gaze at the disco ball. Soak in its glow as you nibble on a plate of meat and cheese or sip a cold-brew coffee-accented Negroni or a Scotch ale. To satisfy bigger appetites, the owner, Antoine Le Toumelin, debuted a restaurant last fall with a similarly relaxed vibe, also called the Edge, two floors down. Samjin Building, 8 Eulji-ro, 12-gil, third floor

Straight-up Madison Avenue:

A barely lit wooden door adorned with only a traditiona­l carved-window design is all that indicates something might exist at Bar SookHee. Opening it reveals a staircase that appears to lead you onto the set of “Mad Men,” complete with a bar that extends the length of the room. Whiskey is the specialty here, as evidenced by the bottles sharing wall space with art by owner Lee Soo-won’s mother, and a short list of drinks, featuring seasonal fruits, is available on a printed scroll.

A second location, in nearby Myeong-dong, is tantalizin­gly harder to find, hidden on a seemingly vacant floor above a Starbucks. Both branches serve tempting entrees and snacks. Don Draper would be proud — and possibly able to visit soon: Lee has his sights set on opening an outpost in New York City. For now, enjoy the Euljiro branch while you can. It’s

relocating to a yet undetermin­ed location in March. Eulji-ro: 23 Samil-daero, 12-gil, second floor; Myeong-dong: 7-9 Myeong-dong, 10-gil, fourth floor

Enter through the clothes shop:

Finding the racy restaurant-wine bar at the back of the Ajobyajo Fink Label clothing boutique should help you forget the nightspot’s unprintabl­e name. Pass racks of streetwear and ascend the stairs: An image of a biker wearing no bottoms signals you’re at the right place. A sleek, low-lit room awaits with giant aquariums below the bar drawing your eye and hinting at the seafoodhea­vy menu, which includes entrees like udon with uni and salmon, mixed seafood tartare, and raw oysters in grape granita. The lounge also offers a hefty list of natural wines. With city vistas, flickering candles and statues set into the wall, the rooftop dining area is even more alluring

than the indoor space. 42-21 Supyo-ro, fourth floor

Sinheung Market

Deep in the Yongsan district, in the enclave of Haebangcho­n, the decades-old Sinheung Market is getting a refresh. The mom-and-pop storefront­s along winding alleyways are newly repaved, with a canopy of neon lights suspended above, summoning curious drinkers and adventures­ome diners. Bringing friends here feels almost like a betrayal — it’s so cozy and charming you want to keep it a secret. But the word is out: Lines and wait times are getting longer at the area’s cafes, roasteries, wine bars and cocktail lounges. Pop in on a weeknight for more elbow room.

Thai spice and skyline views:

Blink and you’ll miss the door leading to Pad Kapaw, a restaurant that seats no more than 10 to 15

diners. Chef-owner Sriprateep Paw hails from a Thai family of restaurate­urs, and he prides himself on serving authentic meals instead of the Korean-Thai fusion that’s more common in this city. If you can snag a table, expect impeccable takes on classics like pad krapow, tom yum soup and pad kee mao, all perfect with a bottle of Singha beer. 97-6 Sinheung-ro, second floor

Ginn-Laoo, a sister restaurant and a more casual Thai bistro, opened in August around the alleyway from Pad Kapaw. Here, simpler specialtie­s from the Isan region of northeaste­rn Thailand, like a palate-singeing papaya salad and a sweet-zesty beef noodle soup, are on offer. Don’t run off if the restaurant looks full: A back patio offers a stunning view of the Seoul skyline. 99 Sinheung-ro, first floor

Classic cocktails with a furry friend:

If both of Paw’s Thai restaurant­s are packed, join the waiting list, then head to Gil Bar Dak, a darling drinking spot that has its own mascot, a fluffy gray Bedlington terrier often seen poking its head out the window. The bar’s proprietor, Kim Woo-sin, recently doubled the space of what had been an intimate one-unit storefront, installing an expansive counter for more room to enjoy some of the city’s most reasonably priced classic cocktails, including a Luxardo-cherry-adorned old-fashioned and a mojito with the ideal mint-lime balance. Stools perched outside offer airy seating with a taste of the market atmosphere. Pro tip: You can bring your own food or get restaurant delivery at your table. 26-18 Sinheung-ro, 20-gil, first floor

Moss on the table, peat in the glass:

One of the market’s newer outposts is Bar Harding, a handsome, signage-free whiskey bar. Pull back the velvet drapes and find a one-room spirits library with bottles on hardwood shelves and eight seats around a raw-edged wooden table with moss in the center. Whiskies like a spicy Highland Park and a peat-forward Laphroaig come in shots, 90-milliliter bottles and full bottles. For a place with such a minuscule kitchen, Bar Harding turns out wonderful food cooked and served by owner Ko Tae-won (he also owns Third Culture Club, the lively wine bar around the corner). A bundle of sesame-seed-sprinkled cold spinach in soy sauce cooled the fire of our chosen whiskey, which itself cut through the oil in a crisp fried mung bean pancake. Gather your friends and take over this place for an immersive experience. Once you’re past those curtains, the sounds of the street market fade away and, as with so many of these hidden treasures, you get a sense that your exploratio­ns have led you, at least for an evening, to your own private Seoul.

 ?? ?? Inside a restaurant-wine bar accessible by passing through a clothing shop and ascending a staircase in Seoul, South Korea, Oct. 8, 2022. The racy restaurant offers a hefty list of natural wines and other drinks that pair well with its seafood-heavy menu.
Inside a restaurant-wine bar accessible by passing through a clothing shop and ascending a staircase in Seoul, South Korea, Oct. 8, 2022. The racy restaurant offers a hefty list of natural wines and other drinks that pair well with its seafood-heavy menu.
 ?? CHANG W. LEE/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2022 ?? A pre-wedding party at Ginn-Laoo, a casual bistro specializi­ng in the cuisine of Thailand’s northeaste­rn Isan region.
CHANG W. LEE/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2022 A pre-wedding party at Ginn-Laoo, a casual bistro specializi­ng in the cuisine of Thailand’s northeaste­rn Isan region.

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