Cracking the code of the French omelet

The omelet seems obvious: eggs cooked flat, filled and folded. Imagine my surprise, then, to discover that the simple supper I often serve is not an omelet. It’s an omelet.

Nothing like a French omelet. The difference comes down to technique. Like stirring: Apparently one hand is supposed to shake the pan while the other one stirs. Recipe for an aneurysm.

I’m familiar with the egg rules: low heat and a gentle touch. I’m familiar with the omelet. One high school afternoon my friend Ann recited her 4-Hdemonstration of the strawberry omelet. None of which prepared me for the French omelet.

I studied Julia Child, Jacques Pepin and Michel Roux. They counseled: vigorous mix, clarified butter, small pan, hot flame, shake and stir, roll. All in less than a minute.

Which explains why the French omelet has no filling. Whohas time?

It takes practice. Many eggs. And a certain comfort with lumps. After a while, I got the hang of it, more or less. The French omelet is buttery and fluffy and pale. It’s tender and tasty and — so far — hasn’t induced aneurysm.

leahreskin@aol.com.

BILL HOGAN/TRIBUNE NEWSPAPERS PHOTO JOAN MORAVEK/FOOD STYLING Focus: Omelet-making takes practice. Stack up a couple cartons of eggs, a tub of clarified butter (make a batch or buy Indian ghee at the grocery store) and a tableful of ravenous adolescents. That, or an attitude that lets you waste a few eggs....