Cascade celebrates farmers
The Dish on dining
Cascade American Bistro
Where:
Noise level: grandcypress .hyatt.com
Dining on a budget
Lunch is moderately priced for a resort hotel: The flatbreads ($12-$14) and swordfish club ($15) are good values. At dinner the lamb sliders ($15) from the “small plates” portion of the menu are filling. The pork trio from Cascade American Bistro at the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress resort.
When I think of farm-inspired menus, what usually comes to mind are chefs of small, independent eateries forging relationships with growers and food artisans.
But several large resorts also are part of this eat-local movement, including Cascade American Bistro at the Orlando’s Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress. Under the leadership of executive chef Kenneth Juran, travelers can get a taste of local flavor without leaving the tourist corridor.
The restaurant is in the hotel’s two-story atrium that overlooks Lake Windsong. Diners enter from stairs off the hotel’s main lobby. The staircase has an elegant swirl that gives guests views of the impressive 35-foot-tall fountain — a focal point of the room.
The decor is distinctly beige with dark wood tones. During the day that serves the space well, as the large windows showcase the resort’s lush landscaping and illuminate the room with natural light. In the evening the room feels a bit drab, something easily corrected with attention to lighting.
At lunch the pressed Cuban pork torta ($14) sandwich is created with sliced loin and shaved ham. Swiss cheese and arugula temper the sweetness of the meats and a restrained garlic aioli moistens the ciabatta bread without overwhelming. It’s a winner.
TheCaesar salad ($12) has a goodbalance of flavors from the sweet Romaine hearts, the mellow shaved Parmesan and the piquant housemade dressing that has the signature pop of tang on the palate. I added an indulgent lump crab cake ($9). The thick shellfish patty was lightly compacted with negligible filler.
At dinner we chose the sweet corn ravioli with shrimp ($25). The entree was a homage to one of Zellwood’s most popular harvests, growers Long & Scott Farms, and Seafood Connections, a Titusville company that sources wildcaught fish and shellfish. The shrimp were plump and full-flavored and married well with the corn. The pasta pillows were densely packed with a ground mixture that needed a flavor boost.
The pork trio ($29) was inspired by Palmetto Creek Farms in Avon Park. The plate showcased a sizable chop, pieces of pork belly and ribs that were lacquered with barbecue sauce. The pork belly lacked the usual richness because of the way the pieces were trimmed and the chop was slightly overcooked.
For dessert we shared a brandied peach and blueberry crisp ($8). The fruit had well-honed notes of citrus on the finish.
Hotel chefs have been building relationships with farmers for years. But it was Melissa Kelly, the chef at Primo restaurant at Orlando’s JW Marriott Grande Lakes Primo restaurant, who cast a national spotlight on the local efforts. Today the Walt Disney World resort and the Loews hotels at Universal Orlando are also leaders in the drive to source more small harvest foods on a grand scale.
The Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress is poised to be an important player in this movement that supports local economies.